Jam-Packed Japan

My ambitious itinerary for my tour around The Land of the Rising Sun was jam-packed. Likewise, the country of Japan, itself, was jam-packed with people, attributable to the surge in tourism and the large population in major metropolitan areas, like Tokyo—with over 37 million people.

 

Japan expects over 30 million visitors this year, record numbers post-pandemic. The number of foreign visitors to Japan rose 89% in February from a year earlier to about 2.79 million. March saw over three million foreign tourists.  I imagine the numbers were much higher in April when I was there, based on the crowds, and the lure of the cherry blossoms. 

 

April is a popular time to visit Japan because it is sakura season.  Sakura, the cherry blossoms of Japan, herald the arrival of spring, symbolizing both the fleeting beauty of life and the renewal it brings. The flowering trees in variations of white and pink draw enthusiastic visitors from around the world.

 

Oprah Winfrey recently visited Kyoto and lamented that it was cold and rainy and thus the cherry blossoms were late. If there’s one thing I’ve learned in my extensive globetrotting, it’s not to be married to your expectations, especially with wildlife and nature. Seasoned travelers know they must be flexible and able to quickly pivot due to any variety of changes, delays or cancellations at the last minute for a seemingly endless list of reasons. Winfrey and her girlfriends, who accompanied her, were treated to just a bit of cherry blossoms in bloom on their very last day in Japan. Luckily for me, I saw them in all stages from beginning to full bloom to the turning point where the flower petals are falling off the trees and floating through the air like natural pink confetti.

 

Generally speaking, the cherry blossoms bloom the last week of March and first week of April. Despite being forecasted to bloom early in 2024, they were actually a little late, in relation to average dates. Mother Nature is always in charge. 

 

Before I departed, I was religiously watching the cherry blossom forecast online, especially on Japan-guide.com which updated predictions on the daily. I juxtaposed the map of the cherry blossom forecast with the map of my tour itinerary and hoped and prayed for the best. 

 

The cherry blossoms were an alluring draw to make the reservation for this spring sojourn but the primary purpose of my visit was to see the snow monkeys, which had been on my bucket list for several years. An escorted group tour from Honolulu with Nonstop Travel offered both. 

 

Billed as “Off the Beaten Path: A Different Side of Japan,” the tour package included a plethora of hands-on experiences, including soba noodle making, Imayo Tsukasa Sake Brewery tour and tasting, strawberry picking, green tea field and factory (pack your own canister of tea), Hakone Yosegi-Zaiku box making, and sushi making.  Roundtrip from Tokyo, visits included Omiya, Niigata, Sado Island, Nagano, Matsumoto, Nagoya, Shizuoka, Hakone, Mt. Fuji and Tokyo. I even managed to squeeze in a day trip to Kyoto and Nara by myself.

 

The package included roundtrip airfare from Honolulu, 10 nights hotel, 21 meals, tips for local guides and bus drivers, and all taxes and fees.  Highlights of the tour included JR Super Express Train Ride (bullet train), Northern Culture Museum, Niigata Furusato Village, AEON Mall Niigata Minami, Jet Foil Ride to Sado Island, Oni-Daiko (Demon Drums) Performance, Sado Gold Mine, Japanese Crested Ibis Conservation Center, Tarai-bune Boat Ride, Shukunegi Fishing Village, Jet Foil Ride to Niigata Port, Pia Bandai, Zenko-ji Temple, Hokusaikan Museum, Jigokudani Monkey Park (for Nagano Snow Monkeys), Daio Wasabi Nojo, Matsumoto Castle, Unagi Pie Factory, Michi-no-Eki Stand Kakegaw, Owakudani, Hakone Ropeway, Mt. Fuji, Ameyoko Shopping, Asakusa Sensoji Temple, and Nakamise Shopping. 

 

I guess they don’t call the company “Nonstop Travel” for nothing.  We were on the go the entire duration of our expedition.

 

While sitting in the Japan Airlines Sakura Lounge at Honolulu International Airport awaiting my departing flight, I began to do my homework. Upon landing in Tokyo, our group would be headed directly to the suburb of Omiya, which happens to be very popular for cherry blossom viewing.

 

Omiya Park is a large green space located in the central and eponymous ward of Saitama City, in the north of the Japanese capital. Renowned for over 1,200 blooming cherry trees in spring, this beautiful urban park is one of the best spots to celebrate hanami near Tokyo. Hanami in Japanese means the practice of viewing cherry blossoms, often with picnics under the trees and with festivals of celebration. I was delighted when my online research showed that Omiya Park was within walking distance of my hotel and the sakura would be in full bloom.

 

As luck would have it, they were lighting the trees in Omiya Park at night for the first time in five years. Thus, I could go and view them upon arrival the first evening of my trip and again early the next morning in the daylight before our tour group headed north. I was able to arrange a taxi to the park in the evening and the driver returned to pick me up and take me back to my hotel after I walked through the park at night. I wandered through the crowds in awe of the never-ending cherry blossoms in full bloom illuminated in the darkness. 

 

I also sampled a Japanese style crepe from one of the many food stalls. Japanese crepes, also known as Japanese street crepes, are a popular sweet treat food in Japan. It’s a large, thin pancake filled with whipped cream, berries, ice cream, and chocolate sauce and rolled into a cone shape. It’s a bit like eating ice cream, but the filling is in the crepe instead of an ice cream cone. We actually have a Japanese style crepe restaurant in Mililani Town where I live in Hawaii, so I had already sampled them before leaving home. Still, it was special to have an authentic Japanese crepe in Japan with sakura blooms among the locals enjoying the spring festival.

 

 

In the taxi on the way back to the hotel, I took copious notes in my iPhone of the landmarks in case I had to walk back the next morning, as I was informed that obtaining taxis in the early morning is “difficult.” Luck was on my side as I was able to secure a taxi around 5:30 a.m. to the park but I would have to walk back. Thus, my Hansel and Gretel notes came in handy, and I was able to walk back to the hotel by myself without getting lost.

 

Despite being jet-lagged, I am grateful that I made myself go to Omiya Park to see the sakura in full bloom both at night and in the early morning sunlight.  Omiya Park gives the surprising impression of walking in a flower forest in early spring. It’s like a real-life fairytale.

 

On our first full day we departed the hotel in Omiya outside of Tokyo after breakfast.  We walked the short distance to the train station and boarded the Shinkansen (bullet train) bound for Niigata.  In Niigata, we toured the Northern Cultural Museum, which is based in the former home of the Ito family that was said to be among the wealthiest of Niigata farmers in their day.

 

For lunch, we visited the Niigata Furusato Village, a multi-purpose tourism facility comprised primarily of a bazaar hall, with a collection of Niigata’s products and delicacies.  I couldn’t resist a “soft cream,” the Japanese way of saying soft serve ice cream.  It would be the first of many soft creams but the only one that came with a sheet of edible gold foil. 

 

I also didn’t pass up my first chance to try Fruits Sando which are basically fruit and whipped cream between thick cut slices of shokupan (Japanese milk bread).  The one I sampled was a darker colored sweet bread with a brown sugar cream and local apples.  Good thing I would be walking excessively on this trip to offset the calories!

 

We visited Aeon Mall Niigata Minami, an enormous three-story shopping mall where I enjoyed a Starbucks with our local guide, Yushi before boarding a jet foil boat to Sado Island.  Sado Island, located off the coast of Niigata Prefecture, is Japan’s second largest island after Okinawa and is known for possessing a rich history and culture. Up until the middle ages, this island served as a place of exile where many influential figures were sent for opposing the government. The isle experienced a boom during the Edo Period when large amounts of gold were discovered and were subsequently mined on an industrial scale. The gold rush brought vast wealth and attracted people from all over Japan, enabling a rich and diverse culture to flourish on the island. 

 

On Sado Island, we spent two nights at the Hotel Yahatakan (a Japanese style inn once visited by the Emperor).  This excursion required us to pack overnight bags and separate from our primary luggage.  Once we got to our rooms we found our yukatas waiting for us.  A yukata is an unlined cotton summer kimono, worn in casual settings such as summer festivals and to nearby bathhouses. We were required to wear our yukatas to the traditional kaiseki dinner and Onidaiko (Demon Drumming) performance.

 

In addition to providing yukatas, the hotel provides slippers.  There was a line of slippers in the entrance hall to my room and a much fancier pair in the bathroom.  Of course, I chose the fancier pair because they reminded me of a Gucci pattern and looked more appropriate to wear to dinner.  I was so embarrassed when one of our fellow tour group members admonished me for wearing “toilet slippers” to dinner. I had no idea that there were separate slippers for the public areas of the inn and a special set for use specifically in the bathroom.  Lesson learned.  Later in the trip at another Japanese-style inn, the slippers in the bathroom actually had the word “TOILET” printed on them.  Obviously, I’m not the first or last to make this mistake if they have to label the “toilet slippers.”

 

At the heart of kaiseki dining is the Japanese principle of shun, or taking ingredients at the peak of their freshness. Dishes are presented simply, without artifice. This is done not only to ensure that the true flavor of each ingredient is expressed, but also to properly display each and every one at the height of their natural beauty, thus creating the perfect synergy between cuisine and artistic expression.  The meals are quite intricate and elaborate but often feature raw fish or whole fish that I don’t enjoy.  I’m not about to eat something that is looking back at me. However, many of my fellow travelers delighted in the kaiseki dinners.

 

The kaiseki dinner was followed by an Onidaiko performance. The Japanese word “Oni” roughly translates to demon or ogre in English, making Westerners think of an evil entity for religious reasons. However, that doesn’t do the notion of Oni on Sado Island justice. On Sado, they are seen as friendly deities that would ward off evil by dancing and playing the taiko drum. This is called “Onidaiko” (demon drumming) – or “Ondeko” in the local dialect.

 

After the kaiseki dinner and Onidaiko perfomance, I had my first onsen experience.  In Japanese, onsen are hot springs and the bathing facilities and traditional inns around them. There are approximately 25,000 hot spring sources throughout Japan, and approximately 3,000 onsen establishments use natural hot water from these geothermally heated springs. Many believe the waters have healing powers.

 

This particular onsen was public but separated by gender.  Bathing suits are not allowed. I didn’t enjoy getting naked in front of others and thought it was a bit off-putting to have shower stools around the perimeter of the room with the central bath.  There were men shaving and washing their hair, and it just wasn’t for me. Later during the trip, I had the option of private onsen which were much better, but I still don’t care for them all that much.  The water is so hot that it makes me overheated, slightly nauseous and dehydrated. 

 

The next morning on Sado Island, we awoke early to a Japanese-style breakfast. I don’t enjoy raw fish, seaweed and rice. Thank God for the croissants on the buffet and the Belvita breakfast biscuits my neighbor, Aunty June thoughtfully packed for me.  After breakfast, I took a short stroll around the pine forest that surrounds the hotel.  Then our group departed for a tour of the Sado Gold Mine, Sado Island’s most important historical site.  Sado Gold Mine was Japan’s largest gold mine and was in operation from 1601, when gold was first discovered, for 388 years until 1989 when mining operations ceased at the site. 

 

We also drove by the Kitazawa flotation field. A flotation plant is a site where the final stages of gold mining takes place. More precisely, it’s where the valuable minerals that get extracted from the mine are separated from all the other things that get dug out, such as waste materials and other bi-products. The flotation process requires vast areas of land as well as huge amounts of energy. As the gold mine of Sado used to be the biggest in the entire East Asian region, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the flotation plant is a huge structure. Several new techniques that led to a more efficient ore extraction process were also pioneered here.

 

Photo from https://japantravel.navitime.com/en/area/jp/guide/NTJtrv0512-en/

Next on the itinerary was a visit to the Sado Japanese Crested Ibis Conservation Center adjacent to the Toki Forest Park. It was established in the village of Niibo-mura to protect and propagate the bird.  Referred to as toki in Japanese, this symbolic bird has been virtually driven to extinction in Japan. Sado Island is known as the last home to these birds, and we saw several of the beautiful and graceful creatures flying in the wild on our way into and out of the conservation center. 

 

The crested ibis, also known as the Japanese crested ibis, Asian crested ibis or toki, is a large, white-plumaged ibis of pine forests, native to eastern Asia. Its head is partially bare, showing red skin, and it has a dense crest of white plumes on the nape.

 

We worked up an appetite on our morning excursions and we also had to work for our lunch as well.  We experienced a hands-on soba making session at Fureal House Shiozu no Sato.  The dough was made for us, and we had a colorful and animated instructor who demonstrated how to knead, roll-out, fold and cut the dough into strips to make the noodles.  Divided into groups of four, my three fellow team members nominated me to do the heavy lifting.  “I don’t cook at home, why would I cook on vacation?” I said to my team, but the rest of the tour group overheard me and erupted into laughter. 

 

Soba are Japanese noodles made primarily from buckwheat flour, with a small amount of wheat flour mixed in. It has an ashen brown color, and a slightly grainy texture. The noodles are served either chilled with a dipping sauce, or hot in a noodle soup.

 

In the midst of kneading and rolling out our dough, the instructor ran up to our table shouting, “No. No. No. No. No.” before jumping in to fix the dough into a more suitably uniform shape.  After we finished making the noodles, they disappeared into the back kitchen to be cooked.  Our noodles were served cold with a broth topped with green onions along with shrimp and vegetable tempura on the side.

 

The adventures were not done for the day as we made a short drive south to enjoy a Tarai-bune boat ride. The Tarai-bune boats are one of Sado’s most famous sights. Originally made from washtubs, the boats are said to have been invented in 1868. The design originated from the need to fish in narrow coves formed by earthquakes. After a lot of improvements and effort, they have changed their shape over the years to their current form. A female rower will operate the boat for you, so you can enjoy it without worrying about flipping over or drifting off.

 

I bought perhaps the most useful and practical souvenir at the gift shop near the Tarai-bune boats—a change purse.  Accumulating so many yen in coin form becomes cumbersome and difficult to manager, so a change purse comes in handy.  In fact, I’d say it is an absolute necessity, along with comfortable shoes for the exorbitant amount of walking required in Japan.

 

Next, we visited the charming fishing village of Shukunegi.  The entire village is designated a National Historic Site.  Strolling along the narrow streets of Shukunegi Village allowed us to feel the history and experience the living conditions of people during the Edo Period on Sado Island.

 

Later that evening, I was relieved that our dinner would take us to Ajisai French restaurant located inside of a newer, more modern hotel.  The multi-course western-style meal began with quiche followed by cream of celery soup, salmon, tonkatsu (panko encrusted pork cutlet), and a brownie dessert with espresso on the side. It was heavenly for me, especially after my limited choices at dinner the night before and breakfast that morning.

 

The only day that we had bad weather was the perfect day to have it.  In fact, if we could have chosen which day to have rain, it was the day we traveled from Sado Island back to Niigata on the jet foil boat.  Once back in Niigata, we enjoyed some free time at Pia Bandai, a market that features fresh fish caught off the coast of Sado Island, sushi, and the largest fresh produce market on the coast of the Sea of Japan. Japan is an archipelago, or string of islands, on the eastern edge of Asia. There are four main islands: Hokkaido, Honshu, Shikoku, and Kyushu.  Because it is surrounded by the Pacific Ocean, the Sea of Okhotsk, the Sea of Japan, and the East China Sea, seafood is most prevalent.

 

 

I found a coffee shop at Pia Bandai where I enjoyed a satisfying latte and a chocolate soft cream as well as slice of Baumkuchen, which is a kind of spit cake from German cuisine. It is also a popular dessert in Japan. The characteristic rings that appear in its slices resemble tree rings, and give the cake its German name, Baumkuchen, which literally translates to “tree cake” or “log cake.” The slice I chose was sakura in celebration of the cherry blossoms.  There are many food items and other products throughout Japan that celebrate sakura season.

 

 

Niigata Prefecture is renowned in Japan as the best area for growing rice and fermenting sake due to its deep snow and abundance of clear, pure water.  My neighbor’s mom was from Niigata and affirmed they have the best rice in the world.  Our tour escort presented each of us with a package of Niigata rice from Pia Bandai to bring home.

 

Next, we toured the Imayo Tsukasa Sake Brewery, where they still use the traditional way of brewing sake.  They only use the basic ingredients to brew sake without any artificial ingredients, thus producing 100% pure rice sake.

 

We departed Niigata for a three-hour drive to Nagano where we were reunited with our “check-in” luggage and enjoyed a large dinner buffet with food that looked better than it tasted during our one-night stay in the Western-style Hotel Metropolitan Nagano.  After dinner, most of us ventured across the street to Don Quijote, the largest discount store in Japan.  We also have Don Quijote stores in Hawaii so we were familiar with the concept though the merchandise differs slightly.  It was the perfect opportunity to purchase omiyage. The simplest definition for omiyage is gifts you bring back to your family, friends, and co-workers upon returning from a trip. I took this opportunity to buy souvenir refrigerator magnets and Kit Kats to take back to the office.  Kit Kats in Japan come in a variety of unusual flavors (orange chocolate, milk tea, strawberry, and matcha to name a few) and make for popular souvenirs.

 

Following a huge breakfast buffet—with an espresso machine, thank God—we headed off to pick strawberries at a local farm.  In Japan, strawberries are usually grown in greenhouses, enabling them to be enjoyed for almost half a year, as they can be picked from December to early May. According to Japan’s Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, Japan has over 312 varieties of strawberries!

 

After satisfying our sweet tooth on perfectly red strawberries, we visited Nagano’s Zeno-ji Temple, one of the most important and popular temples in Japan. It was founded in the 7th century and stores the first Buddhist statue ever to be brought into Japan when Buddhism was first introduced in the 6th century. The modern city of Nagano began as a town built around the temple.  While there, we were treated to beautiful pink sakura, which provided a picturesque backdrop for a young bride and groom dressed in ceremonial wedding kimonos posing for their wedding photos.

 

After a pleasurable stroll around the temple, we enjoyed some time exploring Nakamise Street to enjoy lunch and shopping. The name of this street in Nagano literally translates to “shops on the inside,”alluding to their location on the Zenko-ji Temple complex. This dynamic souvenir street leads the way to Zenkoji’s main hall and you’ll find everything from Japanese sweets and dumplings, to umbrellas, kimonos, Buddhist prayer beads and ornaments. There’s even a Starbucks. For lunch I enjoyed katsudon. Katsudon is a fried, panko-breaded pork cutlet with egg over rice and a favorite of Japanese restaurant-goers.

 

Finally, we explored the Hokusai Museum where we learned about Japan’s most famous artist, renowned master of ukiyo-e woodblock prints, Katsushika Hokusai. Known simply as Hokusai, he was prominent during the Edo period, active as a painter and printmaker. He is best known for the woodblock print series, “Thirty-Six Views of Mount Fuji,” which includes the iconic print, “The Great Wave off Kanagawa.” I got my partner, Sam a T-Shirt with the popular wave design.

Photo from https://hokusai-museum.jp/modules/Exhibition/exhibitions/view/3731

Our home for the night was a Japanese-style inn, Ryokan Biyunoyado, where, much to my disappointment, there were no western-style beds so I had to sleep on the floor.  The “toilet slippers,” however, were clearly marked so I avoided further embarrassment before dressing in my yukata for another kaiseki dinner. 

Following dinner, I enjoyed a private, outdoor, rooftop onsen. When I got overheated, at least I could get out and cool down in the chilly air. The privacy was an added bonus.

While checking out of the hotel the next morning, I was talking with our hostess, Yuki.  When I handed over my American Express to pay for my gift shop treasures (including homemade ginger miso), she said, “That’s a nice card.  Is it Delta?” I said yes, and, as it turns out, in addition to being an owner of the inn, Yuki is also a flight attendant with Delta.  She flies with our cousin, Germaine who also works for Delta and she owns a condo in Honolulu. She gifted me with a T-shirt and we vowed to reunite in Hawaii for lunch.  Small world!

I could hardly contain my excitement as our bus made its way from the inn to the Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park.  The snow monkeys had been on my bucket list for many years since seeing them on TV so I was busting at the seams.

 

Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park is located in the valley of the Yokoyu-River, in the northern part of the Nagano prefecture. The name Jigokudani, meaning “Hell’s Valley,” is due to the steam and boiling water that bubbles out of small crevices in the frozen ground, surrounded by steep cliffs and formidably cold and hostile forests.

 

It is famous for its large population of wild Japanese macaques, more commonly referred to as snow monkeys, that go to the valley during the winter, foraging elsewhere in the national park during the warmer months. The monkeys descend from the steep cliffs and forest to sit in the warm waters of the onsen (hot springs) and return to the security of the forests in the evenings.

 

As we were hiking though the forest to see the monkeys, I was walking alongside our local guide, Amy (a retired schoolteacher) when a motor scooter came by, and the person driving stopped to talk to Amy. She told me it was one of her former students who now worked at the park.  The former student said there were no monkeys so far today.  Wait. What? No monkeys? At the snow monkey park?  I had a panic attack, but I kept walking and began to pray.  Amy told me that she’d never been to the snow monkey park when there weren’t any monkeys.  She said if there weren’t any monkeys we’d receive a special souvenir.  I didn’t want a souvenir. I hadn’t spent all this money and time to get a souvenir.  I wanted to see the monkeys. Again, I continued to pray as I walked, “Please, God, let us see the monkeys.  Even if it’s just one or two.”

 

At the end of the trail there’s a steep set of stairs that you have to climb to enter the park.  After passing through the admission station, I saw monkeys!  Thank you, God!  I love monkeys and they didn’t disappoint.  They have their cute little babies in the spring, and they were playing on the rocks all around us. Some of them were even frolicking around and in the onsen (hot springs).  It was definitely worth the hike along the slightly muddy incline through the forest to see these majestic creatures in their native habitat.

 

After a delightful encounter with the snow monkeys, we made our way to Matsumoto Castle. For over 400 years, Matsumoto Castle has stood proudly in the center of Matsumoto City. While it was built during the Warring States Period, it never saw battle, and instead of becoming a symbol of war, it became a symbol of the people who worked so hard to protect it.

 

The castle is a National Treasure, not just because it is one of the few surviving castles left in Japan, but also because of its beauty and its unique construction. Both first-time visitors to Japan and seasoned castle enthusiasts can appreciate its chic black-and-white exterior and the majestic Japan Alps in the distance.

 

Located in the Circum-Pacific “ring of fire,” Japan is predominantly mountainous – about three-fourths of the national land is mountains – and long mountain ranges form the backbone of the archipelago. The dramatic Japan Alps, studded with 10,000-foot peaks, bisect the central portion of Honshu, the main island.

 

In addition to the Alps in the distance, the cherry blossoms were in their first full-day of blooming and offered pleasing additions to photo ops of the castle and the surrounding moat. 

Our local guide told us we wouldn’t have time to tour inside the castle, however, I followed some of my fellow tour members into the Tower.  I saw them standing in line and then I saw some more of my traveling companions inside as well.  I kept following the queue, ascending higher and higher up the Tower, which had extremely steep steps that eventually became like climbing an enormous ladder.  I couldn’t exit until I made my way to the top in the queue and proceeded back down. This was an extremely slow process and I panicked as I saw how close I was getting to the scheduled meeting time at our bus, and I no longer recognized anyone from our group.

To make matters worse, the guard held up a long line of us trying to get down in order to let another group come up.  This further delayed me.  Once I was outside of the Tower, I ran like “Chariots of Fire” until I was totally out of breath but able to see the bus.  Fortunately, I wasn’t the last one back, but I had no time for a toilet break.

Our next stop of the day was at Daibo Wasabi Nojo, one of Japan’s largest wasabi farms and popular tourist destinations located in rural Azumino City near Matsumoto.  We had a plethora of items on our pre-set menu, including towers of rice baskets decorating the tables. I particularly enjoyed mixing the fresh wasabi with my rice and some soy sauce (which we call shoyu in Hawaii).  It was so funny because my new friends on the tour learned of my dislike of raw and whole fish.  They all ate the fish and gave me their pork tenderloin.  By the time the meal was over, I had four or five of the empty pork plates stacked in front of me making me look like a real pig!

 

But this kind gesture is demonstrative of the aloha spirit.  It was wonderful traveling with a group from Hawaii because everyone brought their aloha with them.  They were an amazing, warm, welcoming, friendly and courteous group of folks.  Have you ever been on a group tour where someone buys you lunch just because they “enjoy your company?”  Or treat you to soft cream for breakfast?  I’ve never experienced anything like it in all of my travels.  They say it’s not just about the journey but who you travel with that matters, and this group really added to the experience.

 

Upon departing the wasabi farm, we had a three-hour drive to Nagoya.  Nagoya is a major urban center between Tokyo and Kyoto and a gateway for accessing Kanazawa, Takayama and other destinations in the Hokuriku region. The capital city of the Aichi prefecture, Nagoya is home to 2.3 million people. I had no idea Nagoya was so huge!

 

We enjoyed an elaborate dinner buffet at the Pergola restaurant on the 15th floor of the Nagoya Marriott Associa Hotel, with crab legs and prime rib from the chef’s carving station.  The desserts were incredible, too, with an ice cream that was topped with what looked like noodles but were the consistency of ice cream or cake frosting.  They even had Perrier, much to my delight.  Even though the countless vending machines all over the country offer so many choices, sparkling water was not an option that was readily available.  The Marriott was attached to the train station, and I was so disappointed we weren’t staying there because I was leaving the group the next day to depart from the train station for a private tour of Kyoto and Nara.

 

Instead, we drove 15 minutes to the Nagoya Tokyu Hotel, which was adequate but not as nice as the Marriott.  Also, it required another 15 minute commute back to the train station in the morning.  Fortunately, our tour group escort, Mike Lindo, who accompanied our group of 30 round trip from Honolulu, made sure our local guide communicated with the hotel staff that I needed a taxi to the train station at 6:30 a.m.

 

Upon arriving at the train station, I followed the step-by-step instructions (that also included photos) and was able to obtain my Shinkansen (bullet train) ticket from a machine using the QR code I obtained when I pre-booked on Klook.com. I still had plenty of time before my 8:00 a.m. train to Kyoto but I wasn’t quite sure where to go.  As I stood in line waiting for Starbucks to open (they don’t open until 7:00 a.m. in Japan), I noticed a young lady.  I began using google translate on my phone to communicate and ask her if she could help me find my train.   Her name was Mai and she was my guardian angel—an answer to my prayers. 

 

Thankfully, she had enough time and was willing to assist.  I treated her to a Starbucks and then she showed me the way to my train.  I thanked her using google translate and she said, “When we are in trouble we help each other.” This is something we should remember not just while traveling but also in everyday life. This is one of many ways that Japan and Hawaii are similar—the warm and caring nature of the people and their compassionate attitude toward one another.  It’s not surprising that so many people from Hawaii visit Japan and vice versa.

 

Google translate is a wonderful and useful tool to communicate.  You can type or speak what you want to say in English and voila it pops up in Japanese.  You just show your phone to the other person. It helps overcome the language barrier, which I found to be more challenging than in most of the other countries that I have visited. Many people in Japan are either unable or unwilling to speak English and the signage and menus have limited English.  Google translate will also work on images so you can take photos of menus, train tickets, etc. and have them translated into English.

 

In order to utilize google translate, however, you must have internet access.  When I travel internationally, I turn off the cellular data on my phone and only utilize free wi-fi. I found a wonderful and useful free app called “Japan Wi-Fi” that I downloaded and once you register, it automatically connects you to available free wi-fi wherever you travel throughout Japan.

 

Having benefitted greatly from google translate and my guardian angel, Mai, once I was onboard the train from Nagoya to Kyoto, I could breathe a sigh of relief and enjoy a Tamago Sando that I purchased at the train station. Tamago Sando is Japanese for egg salad sandwich. They are scrumptious little sandwiches made on Japanese milk bread with no crusts.  The bread is slightly sweet and the egg salad also has a touch of sugar in it, in addition to Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise.  I survived on these sandwiches throughout my trip when I couldn’t eat what was served or I ran out of time to go to a restaurant for a meal.  They sell them at all the convenience stores. They paired well with the Cheez-It crackers I brought from home. I always bring snacks from home just in case.

 

We were on the move constantly and here I was substituting a completely separate day tour to my journey. The itinerary on the group tour in Nagoya that day wasn’t particularly appealing to me, which included touring the Toyota Museum and Noritake Porcelain Factory.  Instead, I had pre-planned a private tour of Kyoto by myself.  I figured if it was only 34 minutes by bullet train, I would regret not seeing Kyoto because it is more historical and traditional.

 

Friends of mine who were recently in Japan had posted videos of deer on Instagram. I was intrigued and did my research.  As it turns out, the deer are in Nara Deer Park which is not too far from Kyoto.  To no one’s surprise, including myself, I suddenly found myself adding even more to my plate, but I wanted to see as much as possible and figured I could sleep when I got back home.  Thus, I had to arrange for a different guide than the one I had booked in advance and replace him with one who was willing to add Nara to my already overly-ambitious Kyoto itinerary. 

 

I found my new guide, Taka, online via “Tours by Locals,” and he responded to my email request for a day tour of both Nara and Kyoto. Taka met me at the Kyoto station upon my arrival fully prepared with a typed itinerary and maps.  We immediately began a dizzying day of playing zig-zag from train to train and train to subway and vice vera, but we managed to cover everything, beginning with Nara Deer Park, which was about a 45-minute train ride from Kyoto.

 

Considered the messengers of the gods, Nara’s over 1,000 free-roaming deer have become a symbol of the city and have even been designated as a National Treasure. Deer crackers are for sale around the park, and some deer have learned to bow to visitors to ask to be fed.  It’s like something out of a children’s storybook. In fact, my friend who posted the videos on Instagram that first lured me in, said she felt like Snow White.

 

Nara’s deer are surprisingly tame, although they can be aggressive if they think you will feed them, so make sure not to tease them with food.  Indeed, one of them came up from behind and bit me on the ass!  When I turned around to see the culprit and give him a cracker another deer grabbed ahold of my shirt from the front. They’re almost as demanding as my dogs when it comes to treats.

 

Established in 1880, the park is the location of many of Nara’s main attractions including Todaiji, Kasuga Taisha, Kofukuji and the Nara National Museum. Todaji Temple is the largest wooden structure in Japan and home of the tallest Buddha in the country, standing at almost 50 feet.

 

Kyoto is the most rewarding city in Japan and a place all travelers should visit at least once in their lives. It’s the best place in the country to experience traditional temples, shrines, gardens, geisha, shops, festivals and restaurants. Kyoto has become so popular that it’s difficult to navigate the overwhelming crowds of tourists, many who rent kimonos to pose for photos.

 

Highlights of my day included Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, one of Kyoto’s top sights and for good reason. Standing amid these soaring stalks of bamboo is like being in another world. These giants make our bamboo in Hawaii look like pencils.

 

On our walk from the train station to the bamboo forest, I spotted an American hamburger joint where a young man was grilling the hamburgers on an open air hibachi grill in the front of the main floor of the restaurant, with the smell of the freshly grilled meat wafting into the street and drawing me in by the nose (and stomach).  We stopped on the way back and indulged in burgers and fries.  You order downstairs then ascend a steep little staircase to the tiny rooms upstairs where there are maybe half a dozen tables, and they play 1980’s American pop music.  It was heavenly. All of this while pink petals from the tail end of the cherry blossoms floated through the air.  Eat your heart out, Oprah!

 

Yasaka Shrine, also known as Gion Shrine, is one of the most famous shrines in Kyoto. Founded over 1,350 years ago, the shrine is located between the popular Gion and Higashiyama districts and is often visited by tourists walking between the two. The shrine’s main hall combines the honden (inner sanctuary) and haiden (offering hall) into a single building. In front of it stands a dance stage with hundreds of lanterns that get lit in the evenings. Taka and I stopped to take a selfie with the lanterns providing a dramatic backdrop.

 

The Higashiyama District along the lower slopes of Kyoto’s eastern mountains is one of the city’s best preserved historic districts. It is a great place to experience traditional old Kyoto, especially between Kiyomizudera and Yasaka Shrine, where the narrow lanes, wooden buildings and traditional merchant shops invoke a feeling of the old capital city. Yasaka Street is an iconic historical street located in the heart of Higashiyama District, popular as one of the most photogenic spots in Kyoto. The 5-story tall Yasaka pagoda is the last remaining structure of a 6th-century temple complex known as Hokan Temple.

Kyoto’s famous Pontocho district centers on a long, paved alley lined with traditional wooden buildings. A narrow street straddling the Kamogawa River, it is Kyoto’s busiest nightlife spot. We were too early for the dinner crowds so it was still quiet.

 

We stopped to refuel at Starbucks Coffee Kyoto Ninenzaka Yasaka Chaya, which is the world’s first Starbucks store inside of a traditional Japanese house with tatami (mat) seating. From planning to opening, it took ten years to actualize the concept coffee house. Finding the perfect place was more complicated than expected since most traditional Japanese buildings are small and cannot fit a colossal coffee shop, so reforming an old building was a challenge that required cooperation from the local government.

 

Lastly, I visited Fushimi Inari-Taisha Shrine. It is famous for its thousands of vermilion torii gates, which straddle a network of trails behind its main buildings leading to the wooded forest of the sacred Mount Inari. Fushimi Inari Shrine is commonly referred to as the Temple of 10,000 Gates. From there, Taka took me to Kyoto Station where we had begun nine hours earlier and helped me book a return Shinkansen ticket back to Nagoya.

 

It was a particularly exhausting and ambitious itinerary that day. I walked over 24,000 steps in Kyoto and Nara alone. The exhaustion will fade but the memories will last, I told myself.

 

I got back to the hotel and ate some of my egg salad sandwiches and watched Japanese television.  They have some of the craziest shows on Japanese TV, something of a cross between a talk show, game show and talent competition. The same show seemed to be on every night where they would overeat, stick their hands in a fish tank with an electric eel and engage in all sorts of unlimited, mindless stunts and shenanigans.  I had no idea what was going on, but their enthusiasm and absurdity made it hard to turn off the television and try to snooze for a few hours before launching into another ambitious full-day schedule, usually in a different city.

 

The itinerary moved us from Nagoya to Hakone via Shizuoka.  Along the the way to Hakone we stopped at Unagi Pie Factory and also at a green tea farm and factory where we packed our own canister of tea.  The Unagi Pies are more like cookies, and they incorporate powdered eel from the local lakes into the dough to make it sweeter. 

 

Our lunch stop was at Michi-no-Eki Stand Kakegawa.  Not only do they provide a clean and convenient rest stop with quick and tasty food, but they also have some shopping opportunities, providing omiyage (souvenir gifts) for tourists and fresh produce for locals.  I ordered my tonakatsu (pork cutlet) ramen (noodle soup) from a vending machine that spat out a ticket which I took to the counter.  They gave me a beeper and I waited until it lit up and retrieved my meal.  When you’re finished, you return your tray. Mostly, Japan is very orderly, polite and clean. You are responsible for your own rubbish.  In fact, there is often no place to dispose of trash on the streets so many people carry a bag with them to collect their rubbish and dispose of it upon return home or to a hotel. 

 

Despite being impeccably clean, I found that in addition to the lack of trash receptacles, there are also no paper towels in the restrooms.  Some have hand dryers but oftentimes you are left with wet hands (consider carrying a handkerchief for hand drying). I find this surprising in light of the other advancements and comforts in Japan.  For example, virtually every bathroom has a bidet-style toilet with warm water to clean your tush.  The first time I visited Asia eight years ago, I ordered a Toto Washlet for my home, and I’ve had them ever since.  They are a modern convenience that have become a necessity for those in the know. Even the jet foil boat had a bidet and I believe Japan Airlines is the only airline with bidets in the lavatories.

 

A highlight of the road trip was catching a glimpse of the elusive and majestic Mt. Fuji, which is a symbol of Japan’s natural beauty and good fortune. It is an active volcano. Japanese speakers refer to the mountain as “Fuji-san.” Among the several theories about the source of the name is that it is derived from an Ainu term meaning “fire,” coupled with san, the Japanese word for “mountain.” Mt. Fuji is visible 70 days a year on average, and we ended up having two of those lucky days in a row.   

 

In Hakone we had one night at the Yumoto Fujita Hotel.  Hakone, in Japan’s Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park west of Tokyo, is a mountainous town known for its hot springs resorts (onsen) and views of the iconic volcano Mt. Fuji. It also encompasses Hakone Shrine, a Shinto shrine with a red torii gate overlooking Lake Ashi, which can be toured by boat, as well as the boiling sulphur springs of the Owakudani Valley. 

 

At the hotel I enjoyed a private onsen but again, it was just too hot for me. I find it almost overwhelming and exhausting.  It’s difficult to cool down afterwards.  However, I was able to book a massage after the onsen which was very much needed after all the travel. My neck was so tight, most likely because I passed out every night from exhaustion.  Additionally, the pillows in Japan are quite odd and uncomfortable.

 

The Sobakawa pillow is filled with 100-percent buckwheat hulls. It has been used extensively throughout the Orient for hundreds of years and is still the pillow of choice in Japan. Buckwheat hulls are believed to offer therapeutic benefits far superior to traditional foam and feather pillows. Often, we had a combination, where half the pillow was traditional stuffing while the other half was Sobakawa style.  I didn’t they were very comfortable.

 

The hotel provided an extravagant breakfast buffet with many Western items that I enjoy, along with an espresso machine. Although I don’t eat breakfast at home, I find it necessary to fuel the body when engaging in such busy days on tours. Our tummies full, we were off to experience making Hakone Yosegi Zaiku marquetry, an inlaid and mosaic woodwork unique to this area. 

 

Craftsmen have made full use of the wealth of wood colors and textures found in the mountains of Hakone to produce their elaborate geometric patterns.  We each made a coaster and mine came out much better than I expected, although I did minor in fine art in college.  For an extra 100 yen (65 cents) you could purchase a souvenir wooden pice with an etched design to insert into your craft project. I bought one with Mt. Fuji.

 

Mt. Fuji graced us with her divine presence for two glorious days in a row, filling us with awe and wonder and igniting our spirits with joy and hope.  Having seen her on our way to Hakone the previous day, on this morning she first appeared above the Shinto Shrine with the red torii gate overlooking Lake Ashi.  You could see the snow on top of the mountain as she played peek-a-boo with us.  Everyone on the bus gasped at the first sight of this breathtaking view.

 

Next, we had to fight our way through Sunday traffic to the Hakone Ropeway.  It’s a popular attraction for tourists and locals alike, particularly on a clear, sunny day, which we fortunately had plenty of. The Hakone Ropeway is the name of an aerial lift, as well as its operator. The funitel line links between Sounzan and Togendai via Owakudani, all within Hakone, Kanagawa, Japan. The line became a funitel in 2002, the second of its kind in the nation. Between Sounzan Station and Owakudani Station, there is a place where the ropeway passes over the valley around 426 feet above the ground, offering stunning scenery of the impressive valley floor below with steam vents pluming from the boiling sulphur springs, which are used for the onsen, as well ask Lake Ashi.

 

On a clear day such as the one we were experiencing, the grand, beautiful Mt. Fuji can be seen from Owakudani and the ropeway.  Unfortunately, we didn’t get out of the ropeway at the platform that offered the most breathtaking views of Mt. Fuji so we couldn’t spend time in awe or snap any Instagram-able photos.  However, the beautiful image is forever etched in our minds as we passed by poking each other and whispering in awe. On the drive to the restaurant for lunch, Mt. Fuji landscapes came and went and we oohed and aahed, trying to get photos along the way. One particularly beautiful memory is when we drove down a lane under a canopy of blooming sakura with Mt. Fuji in the distance above which was impossible to photograph from the bus. Later on we stopped and took some photos of the 12,388-foot high Fuji-san.

 

Lunch that day consisted of a multi-ethnic buffet at a beer garden called Gotemba Kogen Beer Biking Mugibatake where one of the best dishes was udon. Udon is a type of thick noodle from Japan that is typically made from wheat flour. It is frequently served in soups with a variety of broths and toppings or served in a simple, clear broth with a sprinkle of spring onions. It was oishii (delicious).  My American taste buds were also satisfied as the chef cooked steak on a hibachi grill and served it up next to a basket of French fries. The approach to the restaurant offered a beautiful landscape with a creek and sakura blooms. There were also young students playing baseball at the park next door.

 

We were supposed to ascend to the 5th station at 7,500 feet up Mt. Fuji but the road was closed due to a recent landslide.  We simply wouldn’t have had time anyway because the drive to Tokyo was three hours with extreme traffic.  Indeed, we seemed to stop and go for many miles on the multi-lane highway.  I listened to Barbra Streisand’s recent memoir in audiobook format on my ear buds to pass the time.  I hate road trips but sometimes you have no choice. At least I was a passenger and didn’t have to drive.

 

After arriving at the Daiba area of Tokyo we checked into the nicest hotel of our journey, the Grand Nikko Tokyo Daiba.  Accessed via the Rainbow Bridge or the futuristic Yurikamome train, Daiba is a high-tech entertainment hub on an artificial island in Tokyo Bay. It seems a little quieter compared to other areas of this overwhelming, sprawling metropolis with a population over 37 million, making it the largest city in the world.

 

We enjoyed an izakaya-style dinner at Warawara, a local izakaya restaurant, with our group. An izakaya is a type of informal Japanese bar that serves alcoholic drinks and snacks. Izakaya are casual places for after-work drinking, similar to a pub, a Spanish tapas bar, or an American saloon or tavern.

 

Some izakaya specialize in fish or meat while others may feature regional favorites. Some items that are available at most izakaya are sashimi platters, karaage, yakisoba noodles and edamame (green pod soybeans), which pair well with beer and sake.

 

Our table was set when we arrived with an overflowing spread of sashimi, salad, tempura, chicken skewers and a steel pot filled with cabbage, bean sprouts, green onions and thinly sliced beef in broth.  The steel pot sat atop a a gas burner the waiter lit so we cooked the ingredients at our table in the simmering broth.  They served delicious little ice cream sandwiches for dessert that were like ice cream stuffed pastries. 

 

Photos from warawara minato city photos https://g.co/kgs/R9WnYfy

The hotel offered nice soaking tubs in the large marble bathrooms complete with bath salts.  I drew my bath while watching the crazy TV shows then went to bed. 

 

I was always delighted when the breakfast buffet was more American style. Two mornings in a row I was able to have an omelette to order from the chef’s station and they had American bacon. Most of the bacon in Japan is more like sliced, cooked ham, which was tasty with croissants but not the same as real bacon.  Fortunately, they had an espresso machine at this hotel as well.  Those preferring traditional Japanese fare were offered a set sushi menu in a different dining venue.

 

Prior to embarking on this adventure, I had done my research and worked with a private tour guide to arrange a full day tour of Tokyo’s highlights on the only day of the group tour that we had free time.  After picking me up at my hotel, Ack and I took the train to the Toyosu area, consisting of a fish and produce market that mostly supplies restaurants and also boasts a newly opened facility showcasing Japanese culture with restaurants and shops.  I bought my partner, Sam a high-quality kitchen knife made from Japanese Ibaraki Steel. Each knife comes sharpened into a perfect edge.

Tsukiji Masamoto is one of Japan’s premier knife makers. Founded in 1845, they began producing cutlery in workshops located outside Tokyo. Today, the 7th-generation owner, Misao Hirano, runs his venerable business from within the city’s famed Tsukiji wholesale fish market, where he sells his knives to customers. Over 80% of them are professional cooks, chefs or butchers. 

 

Next on the agenda was ascending to the top of the world’s tallest tower, the Tokyo Skytree.  The 2,080-foot-high Tokyo Skytree is a broadcasting and observation tower.  There are two observation decks. We visited both, and they offer a bird’s eye view of the density and expanse of one of the most exciting cities in the world.

 

The Harajuku District is home to the Meiji Jingu Shinto Shrine. Meiji Jingu Shrine is a must-visit attraction in Tokyo. This serene shrine is dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, and it offers a peaceful escape from the bustling city. The shrine is surrounded by a lush forest, creating a tranquil atmosphere that is perfect for relaxation and contemplation.

 

Entry into the shrine grounds is marked by a massive torii gate, after which the sights and sounds of the busy city are replaced by a tranquil forest. The approximately 100,000 trees that make up Meiji Jingu’s forest were planted during the shrine’s construction and were donated from regions across the entire country. Along the walkway to the shrine is a magnificent wall of sake barrels, representing the various prefectures (states) of Japan.

 

At the middle of the forest, Meiji Jingu’s buildings also have an air of tranquility distinct from the surrounding city. Visitors can take part in typical Shinto activities, such as making offerings at the main hall, buying charms and amulets or writing out one’s wish on an ema, which are small wooden plaques, common to Japan, on which Shinto and Buddhist worshippers write prayers or wishes.

Not far from the shrine is the famous Takeshita Dori Street, an alley lined with fast food outlets, crepe stands, and fashion boutiques.  A juxtaposition to the peaceful tranquility of the shrine, this popular street in Harajuku is known for wacky, youth-driven shops selling colorful and crazy clothes and accessories and is filled with bustling crowds of tourists co-mingling with locals.  We completed our visit to the Harajuku area with a brisk stroll down Omotesando, a fancy avenue lined with zelkova trees and luxury shops located in Shibuya and Minato, stretching from the Meiji Shrine entrance to Aoyama-dori, where Omotesando Station can be found, enabling us to descend to the subway, making a quick getaway to Shibuya. 

 

Shibuya is famous for the Shibuya Crossing and Hachiko Statue.  Shibuya Scramble Crossing, commonly known as Shibuya Crossing, is a popular pedestrian scramble crossing in Tokyo. It is located in front of the Shibuya Station Hachiko exit and stops vehicles in all directions to allow pedestrians to inundate the entire intersection. Shibuya Crossing is the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing, with as many as 3,000 people crossing at a time. To get the best view, my guide took me to Magnet by Shibuya 109 (LOUNGE MAG8) a rooftop lounge where admission of 1,500 yen (about 10 bucks) includes a drink and you can take photos and videos of the famous crossing from above, making the pedestrians look like marching ants.

 

After marveling at the pedestrian crossing and actually making our own way through the intersection a few times, we stopped at the famous Hachiko Statue, which can be found just outside of Shibuya Station. The Hachiko Statue is iconic for its unique story and has become a popular meeting place for friends.

 

The story of Hachiko began in the 1920’s when he was adopted by Hidesaburo Ueno, a professor at Tokyo University. Every morning, Hachiko accompanied his owner to the Shibuya train station and faithfully awaited his return in the evening. This routine continued until one tragic day in 1925 when Professor Ueno unexpectedly passed away, leaving Hachiko waiting in vain. 

 

Despite his owner’s absence, Hachiko returned to the station day after day, faithfully awaiting the return of his beloved companion for nearly a decade. For this reason, Hachiko has become a symbol of loyalty, friendship and devotion. The story of Hachiko has been become well known in Japan and beyond and was even adapted into a movie starring Richard Gere.

 

We trekked through the Ginza shopping district which boasts all the luxury design houses.  I could have spent a week in Tokyo just shopping.  Fortunately for my budget, I didn’t have that much time. We did pop into a couple of my favorites, Cartier and Gucci as well as a luxury resale store called BrandOff that offers gently used merchandise at discounts.  Finally, my guide took me to the train station and helped me catch the train back to the Toyosu district, the location of teamLab Planets.

 

I had read about teamLab on a couple of the Facebook groups I belong to that offer tips about traveling to Japan.  I didn’t think I would have time to experience it for myself because my schedule was already jam-packed. Also, the tickets sell out in advance due to high demand.  However, when I did a google search that morning, I discovered the exhibit was open until 10:00 p.m. and there were evening slots available.

 

teamLab Planets is a museum where you walk through water and a garden where you become one with the flowers. It comprises four large-scale artwork spaces and two gardens created by art collective teamLab. People go barefoot and immerse their entire bodies in the vast artworks together with others. The artworks change under the presence of people, blurring the perception of boundaries between the self and the works. Other people also create change in the artworks, blurring the boundaries between themselves and the works, and creating a continuity between the self, the art, and others. It was like an adult fun house. Only in Tokyo!  I am grateful to have had the chance to experience teamLab Planets and highly recommend it.

 

After breakfast on our final morning of the group tour, I skipped our sushi making activity in order to visit the Imperial Palace.  Tucked away behind moats and thick stone walls, the residence and offices of the Emperor of Japan occupy an enviable spot in central Tokyo. The buildings are off limits to tours because it is a working palace, however, guided tours of the grounds are offered daily (except Monday and Friday).  You queue up as early as 8:00 a.m. About 9:00 a.m. the staff come around and hand out forms that require completion, and you must have your passport with you.  Next, about 9:30 a.m., they allow you onto the palace grounds and funnel you into a multi-purpose room where they play an informational video (in Japanese) on a loop.  Then tour guides make announcements in various languages, including Japanese, English, Spanish and Mandarin.  Then you are divided into your various groups based upon language preference.  The guide walks you around the palace grounds for about an hour giving you a history lesson. From start to finish, it takes about three hours. A faster alternative, the East Gardens are also free and open to the public without the formalities.

 

I rejoined my tour group at Asakusa. Asakusa is the center of Tokyo’s Shitamachi District (literally “low city”), where an atmosphere of the Tokyo of past decades survives.

Asakusa’s main attraction is Sensoji, a very popular Buddhist temple, built in the 7th century. The temple is approached via the Nakamise, a shopping street that has been providing temple visitors with a variety of traditional, local snacks and tourist souvenirs for centuries. I was able to purchase some last-minute omiyage, including kimonos for my two Yorkies, LuLu and Spike. 

I couldn’t resist a 30-minute Japanese foot massage, during which the therapist massages the feet, focusing on areas of tension in the muscles and tendons. The massage combines pressure, friction and kneading with stretching and mobilization. Beginning with a foot bath, the massage is specific to the feet but also includes the lower legs to relax the surrounding muscles.

The foot massage also provided a respite from the overwhelming crowds and provided me with the energy boost necessary to make the final tour stop at Ueno Park, where I disembarked the bus and indulged in the last of my egg salad sandwich addiction. While the rest of the group went off with our local guide, Yuki to purchase dried fish at Ameyoko, I opted instead to walk quickly through the Ueno Zoological Park, Japan’s oldest zoo.  The big celebrities at Ueno Zoo are the giant pandas. The zoo has had pandas since the first pair were donated in 1972 as a gesture of friendship from China to Japan. The current pair of pandas are a male called Ri Ri, and a female called Shin Shin, which arrived at the zoo in 2011.

If you think the experience of Japan is over once you get to the airport for departure, think again.  The Haneda Airport is buzzing with restaurants and shops. There are tourists lined up for the Royce chocolates (they melt in your mouth) and Tokyo Banana (sponge cakes with different flavored fillings) at Duty Free. Most of the high-end luxury goods brands are also represented with individual boutiques, including Bulgari, Chanel, Cartier, Hermes, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and many others. These items are significantly less than in the US thanks to the weak yen and duty free. I saved almost 30% off US retail prices. My philosophy has always been, “It’s not how much you spend, it’s how much you save!”

While waiting for the flight back to Honolulu to depart, I sat in exhaustion thinking about how fortunate I was to have experienced just about everything I had on my list.  Not only was the group tour itinerary ambitious to begin with but I also added some extras thus making it a completely jam-packed journey through Japan.  I achieved the three things I wanted most to see:  cherry blossoms, snow monkeys and Mt. Fuji.  The deer in Nara were a bonus and riding the bullet train was exciting!

 

They say life is like the cherry blossoms, beautiful, short and fleeting. It’s vital to make every effort to fulfill your dreams of traveling and experience the wonders of the world because, while the days may pass slowly, the years go by quickly.

 

Antarctica: The White Continent

Having walked with the penguins on Antarctica in commemoration of my 50th birthday, I can now say that I have set foot on all seven of the continents on Earth. Few people can make this claim, with Antarctica being the seventh and final continent for the majority of the world’s most well-traveled adventurers.  This is because of the remoteness and cost. 

 

Cruises to Antarctica are smaller in number, although close to 100,000 people, myself included, traveled there during the 2022/23 season.  The season starts at the end of October/beginning of November and ends in March. These are the spring and summer months in Antarctica. 

 

I started planning my sojourn well over a year in advance. I began by researching the many cruise expeditions and options. I chose an itinerary with Albatros Expeditions, a Scandinavian company based out of Copenhagen, Denmark, aboard their new ship in its second season, Ocean Victory.  

The dates of this 11-day itinerary coincided with my 50th birthday on March 6 and the ship offered staterooms specifically for solo travelers. We set sail on February 27 and ended on March 9. The expedition was a birthday gift to myself.

 

On this inspiring cruise, round trip from Ushuaia, Argentina, we explored the White Continent’s magnificent landscapes, glacial mountains, and incredible wildlife before reaching 66°33′ – the Antarctic Circle, an accomplishment that will forever be a feather in my well-traveled cap.

Antarctica has 99% of its land permanently covered in ice, hence the nickname “The White Continent.”   It is so utterly remote and inhospitable that no people have ever settled here. It was only 200 years ago that human beings even glimpsed the vast continent.  The first people to cross the Southern Ocean did so to hunt sea mammals.  The populations of whales and seals are only now beginning to recover after 150 years of intensive hunting.  

 

The scenery in Antarctica is magnificent and dramatic but what really attracts people here is the wildlife. Since 1959 the whole of Antarctica has been protected by international treaty.  The nations of the world have agreed that no country can claim Antarctica. 

 

Sailing to Antarctica involves crossing the infamous Drake Passage, the final stretch of water between South America and Antarctica, and it can be extremely rough. In fact, the strongest recorded ocean current in the world flows through this part of the ocean—46 mph—at its peak! That’s why it’s so important to know how to survive the Drake Passage before you embark on your Antarctic cruise vacation.

 

The Drake Passage is known for its waves, in fact the waves can be up to 60 feet tall! In addition to these massive swells, it is also home to some incredible winds and ocean currents. Even though it’s a remote part of our world, there are still a lot of people who make their way through it every year.

 

Although Antarctica was first sighted by an explorer as early as 1620, it wasn’t until 1820 when sealing and whaling ships began traveling down here regularly.  The Drake Passage is named after the English pirate Sir Francis Drake, who sailed along it in 1578. It’s considered one of history’s most dangerous stretches of water due to large icebergs and strong winds. Because so many vessels have sunk here, it has been called the graveyard of ships. The first recorded shipwreck occurred in 1775 when Captain Cook lost two ships (HMS Resolution & Adventure) on his second voyage around the world.

 

Surviving the Drake Passage these days is a lot easier than the past. With modern ships  and technology there are more ways to survive the swell. Stabilizers are a major part of the modern cruise ships’ arsenal, and simply some ships are better equipped to handle the rough waters with state of the art technology like the the one I was on, Ocean Victory by Albatros Expeditions. With their unique x bow design, they can cut through waves with ease. They also have an array of items on board should the vessel be hit by bad weather, including sea sickness medication and seasickness bands for each passenger’s use if needed. Additionally, there is also a modern medical facility and doctor onboard. In addition to all of that, they have an experienced team on board who are trained to help you get through any situation you may face at sea.

 

Crossing “The Drake” is a rite of passage, and the way to earn your stripes. It takes at least two days each way.  I followed in the footsteps of the great explorers but fortunately I was in the comfort of my modern, new expedition vessel. Remember though, like any ocean it can also be completely calm and flat. That’s why it’s known as both the Drake Shake and the Drake Lake, depending on conditions. I experienced both.

 

As our voyage began, we piloted through the calm, gunmetal grey waters and sloping glaciers of the Beagle Channel. Turning southward, our journey continued in earnest, and we entered Drake Passage. A body of water that marks the intersection of the cold Antarctic with the warmer Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, Drake Passage is known for rollicking conditions and strong westerly winds, called the Roaring Fifties. 

 

The most spirited sailors consider Drake Passage a lifetime achievement, and I completed the crossing twice!  In the Drake, the excitement builds as Antarctic wildlife comes into view. These nutrient rich waters lure a wealth of seabirds, albatrosses, and several species of whales.

 

Continuing onward, we enjoyed the calming silence and alluring beauty of the Antarctic islands during hikes and zodiac excursions. Spread in isolation along the coast, we also saw a number of manned and unmanned research stations, some of which we visited before accomplishing our goal – crossing the Antarctic Circle at 66°33′ south. Here, the sun is up for 24-hours a day during the austral summer.

 

Dense pack ice forbids many ordinary vessels from reaching as far south as the Antarctic Circle, but with a high ice-class rating, Ocean Victory navigated swiftly carrying us on an adventure of a lifetime. We were supposed to go to the South Shetland Islands before Antarctica but we made made such great time due to the experiencing the “Drake Lake” instead of the “Drake Shake” en route that the captain was able to take us much farther south more quickly than originally planned. By our second day at sea, we had entered the Antarctic. The Antarctic is defined as “all the lands, seas and territories within the Antarctic Convergence.” Our first zodiac cruising was in the Mudge Passage.

 

Mudge Passage is a marine passage running East to West from the vicinity of Prospect Point, Graham Coast, between Beer Island and Dodman Island to the North and Saffery Islands and Trump Islands to the South, to the vicinity of Extension Reef. The passage was navigated and charted by Captain C.R. Elliott in Royal Research Ship John Biscoe in January 1979. It was named by the UK Antarctic Place-names Committee (UK-APC) after Thomas Mudge (1715-94), English horologist who made substantial improvements to marine chronometers.

 

On our zodiac cruise we saw crabeater seals, leopard seals, icebergs and other interesting ice formations. Some of the passengers on the zodiacs saw adelie penguins and the kayakers were lucky enough to spot orcas—also know as killer whales.

Since the weather was considered so good—some sunshine, low winds and 0 degrees Celsius, which is 32 degrees Fahrenheit, the expedition crew decided to take advantage of this opportunity to offer the polar plunge. A record 118 guests bravely jumped into the freezing cold water at 2 degrees Celsius, which is about 36 degrees Fahrenheit.  Our polar plunge took place farther south than any of the other Albatros Expedition cruises this season.

As if the day weren’t magical enough already, later the same evening we crossed the Antarctic Circle at 66°33′49.4″south of the equator. We were the only Albatros Expeditions cruise of the season to make it this far south. As the announcement was made that we were crossing the Antarctic Circle, guests squealed and applauded with delight while toasting champagne flutes to celebrate this feather in a world traveler’s cap.

The Antarctic Circle is the most southerly of the five major circles of latitude that mark maps of Earth. The region south of this circle is known as the Antarctic, and the zone immediately to the north is called the Southern Temperate Zone.

 

With Mother Nature continuing to smile on us with relatively good weather, we were lucky enough to visit Port Lockroy before it closed for the season.  Port Lockroy is a bay forming a natural harbor on the northwestern shore of Wiencke Island in the Palmer Archipelago to the west of the Antarctic Peninsula. The Antarctic base with the same name, situated on Goudier Island in this bay, includes the most southerly operational post office in the world.

 

The bay was discovered in 1904 and named after Edouard Lockroy, a French politician and Vice President of the Chamber of Deputies, who assisted Jean-Baptiste Charcot in obtaining government funding for his French Antarctic Expedition. The harbor was used for whaling between 1911 and 1931. During World War II, the British military Operation Tabarin established the Port Lockroy Station A on tiny Goudier Island in the bay, which continued to operate as a British research station until January 16, 1962.

 

In 1996 renovation of the Port Lockroy base buildings was begun by staff from the British Antarctic Survey, funded by the Government of the British Antarctic Territory. The United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust took over management and conservation of the site in 2006 and operates a museum and post office staffed in the Antarctic summer (usually November–March). It is one of the most popular tourist destinations for cruise-ship passengers in Antarctica. Proceeds from the small souvenir shop fund the maintenance of the site and other historic sites and monuments in Antarctica. The Trust collects data for the British Antarctic Survey to observe the effect of tourism on penguins.

 

Half the island is open to tourists, while the other half is reserved for penguins. A staff of four typically process 70,000 pieces of mail sent by 18,000 visitors that arrive during the five month Antarctic cruise season. I purchased Antarctica post cards before I left Ushuaia because I had read that the post office often sells out of them, which was the case. The shop onboard Ocean Victory also sells post cards.  A souvenir passport stamp is also offered to visitors of Port Lockroy.

On the same day, in the afternoon, we visited Damoy Point. Damoy Point is a rocky isthmus off the west coast of Wiencke Island, Antarctic Peninsula.  It was discovered and named by the French Antarctic Expedition, 1903–05, under Jean-Baptiste Charcot.

 

A well-preserved hut containing scientific equipment and other artifacts stands at the point. It was built in 1973 and used for several years as a British summer air facility and transit station for scientific personnel. It was last occupied in 1993. It has been designated a Historic Site or Monument (HSM 84), following a proposal by the United Kingdom to the Antarctic Treaty Consultative Meeting. You can enter this hut and have a look around at the rustic accommodations. There is a second, smaller hut that belongs to Argentina but you cannot go inside. 

 

The sun was shining brightly and the sky, water and glaciers were a beautiful spectrum of shades and hues of blue. The mountains were snow covered and breathtaking. We saw colonies of gentoo penguins frolicking on the rocks in the sun and also porpoising in the water, which was a delightful sight that I’d only previously witnessed in documentaries.

 

The next morning we were supposed to visit Paradise Harbor but both entrances to the harbor were blocked by ice.  This underscores the fact that all expedition experiences are dependent on weather. Instead, we made a landing on Useful Island. 

 

Useful Island is a small island lying in the Gerlache Strait off the west coast of Graham Land. It was discovered by the Belgian Antarctic Expedition, 1897-99, under Adrien de Gerlache. The island was used by whalers to spot whales traveling through the Gerlache Strait. Hence the name Useful Island. Gentoo and chinstrap penguins have rookeries on the top of this granite island. There were also some fur seals. I hiked up to the top to take in the panoramic views, pausing for a moment of gratitude to God for the natural beauty and the opportunity to visit this remote part of the planet.

The Antarctic islands still very much count as Antarctica and it all becomes one landmass in winter anyway. What most people don’t realize is that along the Antarctic Peninsula, most of the wildlife and historic locations are found on the islands, not the mainland, so it makes sense to spend as much time exploring the islands as possible. However, the expedition team attempts to make at least one continental landing on the voyage, which is the icing on the cake!

 

We made our official continental landing at Orne Harbor which is a cove one mile wide, indenting the west coast of Graham Land two miles southwest of Cape Anna along the Danco Coast on the west side of the Antarctic Peninsula.  It was discovered by the Belgian Antarctic Expedition under Gerlache in 1898.

 

The name Orne Harbor was probably in use by Norwegian whalers, because it was used by Scottish geologist David Ferguson following his geologic reconnaissance of this area aboard the whaler Hanka in 1913.

 

As God would have it, my group was the first to be called for the continental landing, and I was on the fist zodiac carrying passengers to the shores of mainland Antarctica! I was just as excited as a kid on Christmas morning, and I was extremely well-prepared as I stepped foot on my seventh continent. I had a custom made Antarctica flag that I brought with me that had the words “7th Continent” and the year “2023” on it. After having my photo op with the flag and before getting on the zodiac to depart the mainland, I left the flag with the expedition crew so that all the remaining passengers on board could use the flag in their photos. I had countless fellow travelers come up to me and hug and thank me in appreciation for using the flag. They gleefully showed me the photos they took with the flag. One older Australian couple said that the picture they took with my flag was the only one they sent home to their family.

After our official continental landing we toasted with hot chocolate aboard our zodiac and went whale watching. What a magical experience with the humpbacks putting on one helluva show breaching and fluting their tails. Snow started to fall in the winter wonderland as we sipped hot chocolate and snapped photos of the world’s largest mammals. It was an adrenaline rush and underscored how the journey is simultaneously exhilarating and exhausting.

 

Each day you wake up around 6:00-7:00 a.m. and have breakfast before the first zodiac cruise or landing. The 180 passengers are divided into four color groups and the expedition team rotates the colors so that everyone gets a fair chance. Half the passengers go on a zodiac cruise while the other half make landings if possible. This is due to the limitation of 100 persons on land at any given time, per the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO). All guides must pass IAATO exams annually and all guests must attend a mandatory briefing on the IAATO guidelines. Additionally, all clothing and gear that one plans to wear to Antarctic landings must be cleaned with a small vacuum as part of the bio security process.

When your color group is called, you make your way to the “mud room” where your muck boots are stored.  After dressing in layers for warmth, you put on your life vest and then disinfect your boots by stepping into a liquid solution before and after shore landings in order to prevent any foreign substances form contaminating the pristine environment.  Waterproof pants are required.

 

After our magnificent continental landing, the next morning we took a zodiac cruise around Cierva Cove, a stunning cove that lays six nautical miles southeast of Cape Sterneck in Hughes Bay, along the west coast of Graham Land, Antarctica. It is named after Juan de la Cierva, a Spanish pilot, engineer, and inventor. 

Cierva Cove is located in a protected Antarctic area, so you cannot make landings on the peninsula here, but you can enjoy Cierva Cove by zodiac cruise.

 

Base Primavera, an Argentinian research station located in Cierva Cove was established in 1977, after being expanded from an earlier naval refuge built there in 1954. Located on the southwestern shore, the station operates only during the austral summer. Alongside the bright orange buildings of the station you can spot green grasses, moss and lichen – a rare sight in Antarctica.

Afterwards, I took a jacuzzi surrounded by icebergs and snow capped mountains. It was surreal. Almost as if to say, “We can one up you,” the culinary team presented a magnificent outdoor BBQ, which began with sunshine and ended with snow! Antarctica is an icy paradise!

Later that afternoon we visited D’Hainaut Island, a small, largely flat, rocky island. The island is situated in Mikkelsen Harbor lined with ice cliffs, indenting the south side of Trinity Island between Skottsberg and Borge Point. The island is often snow covered until late in the season and there are a number of shallow reefs in the waters surrounding the island. The bay was full of floating ice. 

 

There is a small Argentine refuge on the island. In addition, there is a large pile of whalebones and a whalers’ water boat located on the northeast shore of the island.

On the morning of my actual 50th birthday, we made our last visit to Antarctica with a zodiac cruise at Fournier Bay.  Fournier Bay is eight nautical miles long and three nautical miles wide, indenting the northeast coast of Anvers Island immediately west of Briggs Peninsula and south of Dralfa Point, in the Palmer Archipelago. Its head is fed by Rhesus, Thamyris, Kleptuza and Altimir Glaciers.

The bay was probably first seen by a German expedition, 1873-74, under Eduard Dallmann. It was charted by the French Antarctic Expedition, 1903-05, under Jean-Baptiste Charcot, and named by him for Vice Admiral Ernest Fournier of the French Navy.

Due to a storm coming through the Drake Passage with 74 mph winds forecasted, we made the last call early in the morning before taking the “long way” back to Ushuaia to avoid the high winds and rough seas as much as possible. As we sailed away from Antarctica, I lost count of the number of people onboard—crew, staff and passengers—who enthusiastically gave me heartfelt birthday hugs and well wishes. Indeed one of the most treasured take-aways from this “trip of a lifetime” were the lovely people I met from all over the world—passengers and crew—who quickly became friends through this shared majestic journey.

 

That evening I dined with an Australian couple and a new friend from Seattle whose husband was seasick.  The four of us enjoyed the gourmet food and then the entire dining room sang “Happy Birthday” as the waiters presented me with a birthday cake that my partner and parents had delivered to me onboard.  As if that wasn’t remarkable enough, the expedition crew surprised me by presenting me with the expedition flag I had brought, which they all signed to commemorate my half century milestone.

We were very fortunate overall as there are some expeditions that don’t even get to make a single landing in Antarctica if the weather does not cooperate. We did five landings and three zodiac cruises. It’s vital to understand that everything on this trip is dependent on weather, which can change dramatically and quickly. Safety is, of course, always the top priority. Our daily temps averaged -1 degree Celsius, which is roughly 30 degrees Fahrenheit. The wind conditions are the trickiest and can present the coldest conditions. Ice is another obstacle.

 

Another uncertainty is the potential for a medical emergency.  All passengers must take out a medical evacuation insurance policy and there are some expeditions that never make it to Antarctica  because they have to turn around due to an onboard accident or health emergency.  As an example, our ship’s doctor had to be medically evacuated the last night of our cruise because of appendicitis.  Fortunately, we were already close to land in South America, having just rounded Cape Horn that evening.  Had this unfortunate incident presented itself a week earlier, it would have caused us to turn around and forfeit the trip.

 

For someone like me who likes an organized, well-planned itinerary, it can be a bit daunting to have to gamble on uncertainty and to accept changes due to weather conditions which elevates my anxiety. At the same time, it’s a good lesson to let go and let God and go with the flow.

 

The return through the Drake Passage was rougher than we experienced on our way headed south. It was much more of the “Drake Shake” with 20-40 foot waves and winds up to 86 mph. As the ship swayed, the passengers and crew looked like a bunch of drunken penguins stumbling around. One night I had a glass of water on my nightstand and it ended up in bed with me! It could have been much worse, though, which I’ve seen in videos posted online by passengers who experience the worst of the Drake Shake.

 

The Ocean Victory is the most stable vessel sailing Antarctica and I definitely believe that if I’d been on a ship with less sophisticated stabilizers it would have been much worse.  Fortunately I don’t get sea sick. I got a prescription for seasick patches which I brought along with me but never had to use. They put out apples and soda crackers which are apparently a remedy for symptoms of seasickness.

 

Ocean Victory joined the Albatros Expedition fleet in November 2021 and was established as one of the most modern and luxurious small ship vessels in the market. I even got to tour the Bridge and learned about all the sophisticated equipment and technology on board to keep us safe.

In addition to safety features, this stylish, new cruise ship is ideally suited for small ship expeditions and is deployed and dedicated to varied Antarctic region voyages. With a total of 93 comfortable staterooms for guests, all with a view of the ocean, (and 90% with their own balcony), several restaurants, a wellness area, an Albatros Nordic Bar, an open deck dining facility, a modern lecture lounge, and other amenities, the vessel is also environmentally-friendly onboard, with an implementation of the Green Initiative Program, ensuring both absolute comfort and sustainability for the guests.

 

In addition to the ship being new and equipped with modern technology and comforts, this vessel offers single, porthole staterooms specifically for solo travelers like me. Since nobody else I know wanted to spend $25,000 to $30,000 to walk through penguin poop, I wanted my own private and comfortable stateroom to retreat and rest. I had no interest in sharing with strangers, though some travelers opt for this arrangement as a cost savings. I often stared enthusiastically out my porthole with my binoculars and caught many remarkable wildlife antics, including whales, seals and, of course, penguins.

It’s pretty crazy when you go to get your morning latte and see a whale out the window, rafts of penguins on icebergs and rafts of penguins porpoising, not to mention all the various ice formations and snow capped mountains. It feels like you’re in a movie. The grand scale of the natural landscape is difficult to capture in pictures or describe in words. One has to personally visit to fully realize the awesome, vast topography and ever-changing natural environment.

 

When exploring in sub-zero polar conditions your body will burn calories much faster than normal and with that in mind, the onboard chef prepared indulgent dishes designed to fuel our activities on ice.  Each morning started with an elaborate breakfast buffet with everything from fruits and yogurts to various egg dishes, omelets made to order, breads, pastries, and endless side dishes.  At lunchtime, there was another carefully organized culinary display beginning with soups and salads and offering multiple entrees and sides to suit every dietary restriction and delight all taste buds.  For afternoon tea, there were a variety of cakes and sandwiches. I took full advantage of both of the fancy, complimentary espresso/coffee/latte machines—one in the lecture hall and one in the observation lounge.  Finally, dinner was a la carte with linen tablecloths and napkins and exceptional and varied choices for starters, entrees and desserts.  Overall, the food was impressive considering that we were sailing in remote territory with no opportunity to restock provisions for the 11 day cruise.  On the last night, they even offered scrumptious lobster tails and baked Alaska.

Despite all the snow and ice, Antarctica is considered a desert with annual precipitation of less than two inches. But most people underestimate how dry the air is in the driest continent on the planet. That’s why proper hydration — and proper nutrition for some of the more strenuous activities — is so important. The restaurant staff ensured that we never went hungry or thirsty. We certainly weren’t roughing it like the first explorers to the White Continent. I doubt the earliest voyagers to this remote area had access to a gym and spa and it’s highly unlikely they had French chocolates on their pillows at night.

 

Antarctica is a magical, icy paradise where the whales, seals and penguins thrive among the glaciers and icebergs and some very few and lucky humans have the brief chance to visit their world temporarily to observe.  I am now grateful to be one of the few fortunate visitors to the White Continent.

 

The Love Boat: Mexican Riviera Cruise

 

The term “Mexican Riviera” was coined by Princess Cruise Line and many of the ports were featured in the popular television series, “The Love Boat” which ran for 10 years from 1977-1987.  The Love Boat featured guest stars sailing aboard the Pacific Princess, promising “something for everyone.”

 

The Mexican Riviera refers collectively to 20 cities and lagoons lying on the western coast of Mexico.  Although there are long distances between these cities, they are often collectively referred to as the Mexican Riviera because of their many oceanfront resorts and popularity among tourists.

 

Riviera in Italian means “coastline” and may be applied to any shoreline, especially one that is sunny, topographically diverse and popular with tourists.  There are many options available through Princess Cruises and other cruise lines that offer short, medium or long durations exploring this region.  The longer cruises offer itineraries that call on more ports while the shorter ones often go from California to Cabo and back.

 

My parents, my partner and I chose a 12-day Mexican Riviera cruise round trip from San Francisco aboard the Royal Princess with an enticing itinerary that included Puerto Vallarta, Manzanillo, Mazatlán, Cabo San Lucas, and San Diego. A memorable highlight was the sail away from the City by the Bay with passengers cheering as we passed beneath the Golden Gate Bridge. The most photographed bridge on the planet, it was named one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World.

As any experienced traveler knows, most adventures include surprises, both good and bad. Unfortunately, after three days at sea at the start of our cruise, the Captain informed us that he would be eliminating both Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo from our itinerary due to Hurricane Orlene. All of the passengers were extremely disappointed to have traveled so far and spent so much money and not be able to see two of the most appealing ports. However, safety is a priority and the newly modified itinerary added overnight in Mazatlán as well as a stop in picturesque and charming Loreto. The Captain obviously watched the weather patterns closely as we had beautiful, sunny days at all ports and avoided the wind and rain that were hitting Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo.

 

Almost as if to balance the failure of the cruise to deliver on the original itinerary, a pleasant and unexpected opportunity onboard came in the form of a British reality television series that was being filmed. Ahead of our journey, we received an email from Princess alerting us to the filming of a reality show on the cruise ship. 

 

It was still a bit of a shock, however, when I was walking through the casino bar to get to the elevators and I saw three of the cast members of the UK show, “Real Housewives of Cheshire” sitting at the bar surrounded by the film crew, directors and producers in the background. They all let out screeches of delight when they saw me pushing my two tiny Yorkies, LuLu and Spike, in their stroller. The crew immediately requested to put a mic on me and asked if I would repeat my entrance and interaction with the Housewives. As a Bravoholic who indulges in the trashy reality franchise, I was delighted to participate. In the meantime, my partner Sam and my Mom and Dad came along and they joined in the filming and fun.

 

The Real Housewives of Cheshire is a reality series that premiered on ITVBe in January 2015.   Developed as the first British installment in The Real Housewives franchise, it has aired 14 seasons and focuses on the personal and professional lives of several women living in or around Cheshire, England.

The current cast features original housewife Lauren Simon and subsequent additions, Seema Malhotra, Rachel Lugo, Hanna Kinsella, Nicole Sealey, Lystra Adams, Sheena Lynch, Katie Alex and Ester Dee.  We met and filmed with most of the ladies over the course of three nights, including the initial encounter.  We were invited back a second night to film with them at the Wheelhouse Bar and again for a third night at The Sanctuary where the scene involved the ladies learning salsa dancing. 

While I’m certain LuLu and Spike were more of a draw than their human escorts, we welcomed the opportunity to join in the fun and look forward to seeing ourselves on British television in December. As a diehard fan of the American Housewives franchise, this was one of the most exciting surprises of the trip and now I will have to binge watch all 14 seasons online in preparation for our upcoming episodes.

After three days at sea, we were thrilled to disembark in Mazatlán, which is both a colonial city and a beach resort tourist town located in the Mexican state of Sinaloa on the west coast of Mexico on the Pacific Ocean.  Mazatlán is known as the “Pearl of the Pacific” and is one of the biggest shrimp ports in the world. 

 

Highlights of Mazatlán include the Golden Zone (resorts and shops), Olas Atlas Beach, Plazuela Machado (town square), Centro Historico (central historic district with architecture reminiscent of New Orleans), and Isla de la Piedra (Stone Island). Within the Centro Historico is the Cathedral Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, which is the main religious building in the city of Mazatlán. The impressive architecture is Baroque-Revival style of Sinaloa, Mexico and home of the Catholic Diocese of Mazatlán. Work on the temple began in 1856 by order of then Bishop Pedro Loza y Pardavé on the site of an ancient Indian temple. Later, parish priest Miguel Lacarra took over the work and it was completed in 1899. We took in all of these sights and attractions from our air conditioned van driven by our private guide, Pedro.

 

A thrilling culmination of the day were the cliff divers. The tradition of cliff diving in Mazatlán dates from the mid 1900’s when the platform that is still used today was constructed on the Malecón just north of Olas Altas Beach. The spot is usually referred to as “El Clavadista” by Mazatlecos — “clavadista” meaning cliff diver — and the jumps are from a nearly 50 foot high platform into water that is just a few feet deep.

The expert divers must time their jumps perfectly to take advantage of the slightly greater water depth afforded by incoming waves, and other cliff divers help the diver who is jumping time his leap, with several often watching from both the base of the platform as well as beside him at the top. The divers work for tips, risking their lives to display their expert skills for delighted tourists like us. Be careful of the distracting street vendors selling fake silver and imitation Cuban cigars.

 

Perched above Mazatlán is El Faro Lighthouse, which is the highest in the Americas and sits at the peak of Cerro del Creston — once an island and now the southernmost hill within the city. It sits 523 feet above high tide, and a hike to the top also includes over 300 steps. It was far too hot to take on this challenge. Indeed, the heat and humidity were oppressive and after a partial day touring the top sights followed by some retail therapy at the cruise terminal shops, we were ready to get back on board the Royal Princess for refreshments and air conditioning.

 

We docked in Mazatlán overnight. After departing the next afternoon, the ship set sail for Loreto. Loreto, Mexico is a hidden jewel on the Baja Peninsula with peaceful charm and dazzling landscapes. The A. Lopez Mateos Malecón is the entryway to Loreto from the docks where our tenders dropped us off. Malecón is a word used in Spanish-speaking countries, and especially in nations of Latin America, for a stone-built embankment or esplanade along a waterfront.

 

Loreto has long been known as “The Best Kept Secret in Baja.” The family-friendly oceanfront town has a historic downtown plaza, bustling local marina, and beautiful Malecón boardwalk with spectacular views of the Sea of Cortez. The neighborhood of Centro is the heart of Loreto. Loreto’s famous fig trees line both sides of the streets forming a perfectly picturesque and comfortably shady canopy over the cobblestone street lined by shops and restaurants. Its colonial buildings include the Misión de Nuestra Señora de Loreto, a 17th-century church.

 

Founded in 1697 by the Jesuit missionary Juan Maria de Salvatore’s, the Mission of Our Lady of Loreto was the first link of missionary foundations that were to spread throughout the geography of New Spain. Expeditions departed from Loreto to establish different Jesuit missions, from San Jose del Cabo to Alta, California. From here the Spanish Roman Catholic priest and missionary Junípero Serra y Ferrer left for the north, where he continued the process of evangelization, but under the tutelage of the order of the Franciscans.

 

Off the coast, the islands and waters of Bahía de Loreto National Park are home to dolphins, whales and pelicans. The city is backed by the Sierra de la Giganta mountain range. After departing Loreto, which was not on our original itinerary but was indeed a pleasant addition, we got back on schedule and made our way to Cabo San Lucas.

 

Thanks to our Texan friends Diane Judah and Mike Hutton, we were able to arrange for a full-day of activities in Cabo with our new amigo and private guide Jeronimo Pliego Lira and his lovely wife Vic Zapien. They drove us all the way out to San Jose del Cabo. Laid-back colonial gem San Jose Del Cabo is a picture-perfect postcard.

 

With a rich and colorful history dating back to the 1700’s, the laid-back community of San Jose del Cabo, Los Cabos offers an abundance of Mexican charm and hospitality with its Spanish colonial character, much different than its livelier sister city of Cabo San Lucas located 25 miles south.

For hundreds of years, San Jose del Cabo was the only community at the tip of the Baja California peninsula. With its natural fresh water oasis flowing into palm-lined lagoons at the edge of the Sea of Cortez, the area was home to Indian communities and hundreds of species of wildlife before the colonization by the Spanish.

After strolling and shopping in San Jose del Cabo, we drove back to Cabo San Lucas. Cabo San Lucas is the major tourist destination that is part of a region called Los Cabos, which also includes the city of San Jose del Cabo. Cabo is a Mexican destination that offers a perfect combination of great weather and spectacular scenery. Los Cabos is located on the tip of the 800-mile long Baja California Peninsula, with the Sea of Cortez on one shore and the Pacific Ocean on the other.

At the recommendation of our friends, we had a late lunch at SUR Beach House with jaw dropping views of the cruise ships and rock formations. From the creators of the Bahia Hotel & Bar Esquina, SUR Beach House brings new life to another historical Medano property perfectly situated on Cabo’s most swimmable shoreline. SUR was designed to feel like your very own Baja beach house. Indeed, we didn’t want to leave as we sipped on our refreshing limonadas made from Mexican key limes, simple syrup and sparkling water. Limonadas are the perfect combination of sweet and tart. They are a welcome antidote to the heat and humidity.

We had amazing weather and breathtaking views all day, culminating with a majestic sunset cruise out to El Arco, a timeless symbol of Cabo. The natural limestone arch has been carved by time, tide, and wind. The jagged rock is situated at the very tip of the Baja Peninsula known as Land’s End and is an iconic sight that marks where the Sea of Cortez collides with the Pacific Ocean. We saw an abundance of sea lions, pelicans and sea turtles enjoying the warm Baja sunshine and azure waters filled with colorful fish.

We docked overnight in Cabo and departed the next day. After a day at sea, we arrived in sunny San Diego, California, where our friend Hannah Hall met Sam to spend the day at the San Diego Zoo. My parents booked the hop on hop off trolley tour and took delight in visiting Coronado Island. I met up with Sam and Hannah at the pier and enjoyed cold brew while they noshed on appetizers before it was time to sail away for the final time.

 

After another day at sea, we disembarked in San Francisco. Before flying out the next day, several of our family from the Bay Area met us for dinner in San Bruno at Jack’s Restaurant and Bar which offered a variety of delicious options.

 

There were some challenges with Princess Cruises that began before we even got onboard.  For example, it seems that every time you call for any kind of assistance, it generally takes from three to five operators before you actually find someone who knows how to properly assist.  Once onboard, we encountered broken A/C in the staterooms, A/C not working fully in some common areas of the ship, trouble with connecting our CPAP machines and even moldy bread on a sandwich I ordered from room service.  The failure to add the Princess Plus package (Wi-Fi, drinks and prepaid gratuities) to our onboard account resulted in several trips by Sam to the casino host and guest services who eventually did what they could to make things right, even offering additional goodwill credits.  While my parents and I have enjoyed many cruises on Princess, Sam prefers Royal Caribbean.

 

Even the food and entertainment this time seemed a bit subpar, and, of course, everything got blamed on “the pandemic.” Our meals in the main dining room were fine but nothing was truly exceptional except maybe a few of the desserts. We did enjoy a five-course dinner at Sabatini’s Italian, one of the specialty dining restaurants, which featured my favorite entrée of the journey, sole piccata. The Crown Grille Steakhouse wasn’t quite as good as the last cruise, especially my Chilean sea bass; however, we devoured the garlic cheese bread. One of our favorite spots is the International Café with sandwiches, salads and desserts, along with an espresso and coffee bar. Sam relished the plethora of choices at Horizon Court, which is the buffet. Sometimes it seemed he and my Dad were in a competition to see who could eat the most!

 

While onboard, I enjoyed watching old reruns of “The Love Boat” on demand in our mini-suite. The one-hour sitcom “The Love Boat” was set aboard Pacific Princess, at the time a real-life Princess cruise ship that ironically we toured in Manzanillo, Mexico almost 40 years ago. My parents and I stayed at Las Hadas Resort in a condo for a month. One morning my Mom opened the drapes and there was a cruise ship in the bay. I was about nine years old, and I said, “Look, it’s ‘The Love Boat!’” My Mom and Dad had their doubts, but, indeed, it turned out to be the Pacific Princess. At that time, before security was so tight, when the passengers disembarked to come ashore, landlubbers were allowed to board the ship for a tour and lunch. The ship was eventually scrapped in Allaga, Turkey in 2013.

 

This month, a new series premiered on CBS inspired by the long-running scripted classic about vacationers aboard a luxury Princess Cruises ship.  It’s full-steam ahead for “The Real Love Boat,” and it’s all about romance, chronicling the adventures of real-life singles brought together for a Mediterranean voyage in search of The One. Assuming they navigate the compatibility and chemistry challenges along the way, only one lucky couple will win a cash bounty and ultimate luxury Princess Cruise. The Real Love Boat —come aboard, they’re expecting you. 

 

Given our challenges with Princess both in booking and while on board, we will be reconsidering which major cruise line we sail on next.  I’m sure some of the obstacles are due to the fact that the cruises are operating at only about 50% capacity and probably not generating much profit.

 

In the meantime, we will enjoy more family time together at New Year’s and throughout the month of January when my parents will be visiting us in Hawaii. In February we will all be together in Florida. From there I will depart for South America to board a smaller expedition ship, Ocean Victory by Albatros Expeditions, to explore Antarctica. With only 93 staterooms it will be an entirely different experience from the mega ships, like the Royal Princess, which can accommodate 3,560 passengers. Despite the disappointments, it’s difficult to find a more comfortable and easy way to travel, especially large geographical areas, than a cruise, which is essentially a floating resort. It’s an ideal way to explore multiple destinations and cultures while only having to unpack once.

Saugatuck: The Art Coast of Michigan

Saugatuck, Douglas and South Haven are located in what is fondly known as the “art coast” of Michigan. Since the late 19th century when it became a remote art colony, the charming little town of Saugatuck has been a tourism destination.

 

According to the City’s web site, “For more than a century, Saugatuck, Michigan has been a top destination in the Midwest for artists, beachgoers, nature lovers and those who appreciate our unique mix of small town charm, arts and entertainment, and the celebration of human diversity and the beauty of nature.”

 

Since I spent 25 years living in northwest Ohio, I had heard friends talk of their weekend getaways to Saugatuck but I never made the drive until I was back in my home state from Hawaii, where I now live. I had a couple days in between relatives visiting, so I decided to pack up my two Yorkies, LuLu and Spike, along with an overnight bag and head out on a short road trip.

 

It’s about three to four hours’ drive time from Toledo to Saugatuck, depending on construction, traffic,  and how many stops you make along the way.  Since the dogs and I have to pee all the time, it took us about four hours.

 

To maximize my limited time, I researched and planned my itinerary ahead of time. I drove directly to Mount Baldhead State Park on the Douglas side of the Kalamazoo River. Mount Baldhead is a 230 foot sand dune located on a narrow strip of land between Lake Michigan and Kalamazoo River, directly across the river from downtown Saugatuck. It has an elevation of 804 feet.

 

It wasn’t easy but I managed to climb all 302 stairs leading up to the top observation deck that offers panoramic views of Kalamazoo River valley and Lake Michigan. The temperatures were in the high 80’s and the humidity was just as high, so I was huffing, puffing and sweating when I got to the summit.

 

From Douglas I drove to Holland, Michigan where I booked a room for the night. Most of the accommodations in Saugatuck/Douglas are inns or bed and breakfasts. Some of the best rated places to stay in town, including Bella Vita Spa and Suites, require you to book at least two nights. One of my well-traveled friends said they’re favorite place to stay is the Starlite Motel. The Dunes Resort is one of the largest LGBTQIA+ resorts in the country, located between beautiful Saugatuck and Douglas, Michigan. An easy way to find out which accommodations have vacancies is to visit Saugatuck.com, click on “stay” then click on “availability” and choose the type of property you desire. Then put in your dates and search for prices and availably.

 

From charming and quaint bed and breakfasts to historic inns and cozy cottages, you’ll find a haven to make your stay peaceful and memorable. With lodging options that are as diverse as the visitors to this community—Saugatuck has the perfect accommodation for your ideal getaway. 

  

Since most of the accommodations book well in advance and because I was staying for only one night, the more desirable options wouldn’t work for me. I chose to stay in Holland, Michigan, which is about 12 miles out of Saugatuck. This area has a plethora of chains—hotels, restaurants and big stores, which is not as charming as Saugatuck but it worked for me on this short visit.

 

I used Hotwire to book the deal of the day which doesn’t reveal the name of the hotel until you book it.  I ended up at the Country Inn & Suites by Radisson.  It was clean and affordable but I would definitely recommend staying in town to be within walking distance to the shops, galleries and restaurants.  Also be sure to book a place that has parking.

 

Sore from climbing the stairs, I made it an early night, and, after resting, I headed out the next morning to Saugatuck Dunes State Park.  Located along a secluded strip of Lake Michigan, Saugatuck Dunes State Park is home to a beautiful stretch of shoreline and huge sand dunes.

 

After paying the $10 entrance fee, I found parking close to the Beach Trail which is the shortest route to the beach and is well-marked with signage along the way.  The young man who collected my money told me the trail was a half mile each way, but it felt longer. Maybe it was because I was still tired from climbing the stairs to Mount Baldhead.  The Michigan summer humidity is not very forgiving and makes the physical exercise seem even more strenuous.

 

When I got to the beach, I climbed up to the top of one of the coastal sand dunes that are over 200 feet, which was quite an effort. I wanted to get a bird’s eye view of the coast but you an actually see it better from the beach. After getting my shoes wet from the waves of Lake Michigan, it was time to trek back through the sand. Luckily there was a rag in the car I could use to clean my sandy feet.

 

Next on my list was to experience the downtown area of Saugatuck along the Kalamazoo River.  Parking is a nightmare.  After circling the blocks several times, I found a spot, unloaded the dogs and sought to find a place to eat lunch.

 

I wanted to be on the water so I chose Coral Gables. This former resort is now a restaurant and entertainment spot for American fare featuring waterfront decks along with piano and pool bars as well as a comedy club. The waitress said they had great burgers so I rewarded my hiking exercise by indulging in a cheeseburger and French fries. Formerly Leiendecker’s Inn, Coral Gables was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2009.

 

I walked around the town for a bit. I was surprised to find more eateries, antiques stores and souvenir shops than art galleries. There are many options to keep you busy depending on your interests. You can rent dune buggies and ride the sand dunes; take winery tours; visit artists or relax with wellness retreats.

Dozens of working painters, sculptors, ceramicists, and other artists call this area home, enriching the community with an open-minded outlook and an appreciation of art. Visitors strolling through the galleries can discover fine art in every medium as well as finely crafted goods from a mix of local and national artists. Discover the creative culture that’s at the heart and soul of the area known as the “the art coast of Michigan.”

The art coast’s creative roots go back 100 years to when The Art Institute of Chicago established its Ox-Bow School here to inspire and educate serious artists. Today, artists of all levels can take advantage of their one- or two-week studio classes or one- or four-day summer workshops. On a more casual level, the Art Barn invites people of all ages and skills to drop in and create something, with all instructions and materials provided.

An abundance of charm, ambiance, and experiences converge to make Saugatuck/Douglas a one-of-a-kind place where people long to stay. Whether it’s sharing a round of golf or a round of beers, exploring winding waterways, or simply digging your toes in the sand, the art coast of Michigan is the perfect destination for revelry or relaxation. Start planning your ultimate getaway and discover why so many first-time guests become regular visitors.

Nashville Nostalgia: Country When Country Wasn’t Cool

When I saw a video recently on social media of Carrie Underwood announcing she would be headlining two concerts at the Grand Ole Opry celebrating Barbara Mandrell’s 50th Opry Anniversary, I was instantly tempted to make the long trip from Honolulu to Nashville.

Barbara Mandrell is the most talented entertainer of my lifetime! I’ve loved her since I was a kid and now I’m almost 50!

The first time I saw Barbara in person I was about five years old at Ponderosa Park in Salem, Ohio. There was a photograph line and you could walk past the front of the stage. She motioned for my mom to lift me up and she sang to me. I looked into her beautiful blue eyes and fell in love. Then I got her autograph after the show.

I saw several of her concerts in the 1980’s and 90’s, including a show at the Ohio State Fair when the former Governor, Dick Celeste, gave us his seats through a family connection.

I was even a member of the “Barbara Mandrell International Fan Club” for many years. I was always extremely happy to receive her newsletter in the mail. Over 100 of us former fan club members donated to a Go Fund Me and sent 50 dozen roses to Barbara in her favorite color, sterling silver, which is actually lavender. The roses, all 600 of them, were set up on the Opry Stage for the special evening.

The last time I saw this legend perform live was in 1996. I was beyond excited to be in the presence of her greatness once again 26 years later to see her receive her flowers while she is living.

My partner, Sam Yoder agreed to meet me in Nashville for our anniversary weekend on his way driving back to Ohio from visiting family in Shreveport. Our friends Katie Spafford and Krysta Happy joined us from Knoxville.

On this special night, July 30, 2022, the Grand Ole Opry celebrated Country Music Hall of Fame member Barbara Mandrell on her 50th anniversary as a member of the Opry family. Opry member Carrie Underwood, who has lauded Mandrell as one of her musical and professional inspirations, performed and helped honor the music legend who was also in attendance at both shows.

It was thrilling just to be in the same room as my childhood idol, even if she was only speaking and not singing, dancing and playing countless instruments effortlessly, as she used to do. I attended both shows and during the first show I sat behind Mandrell and her sisters, husband, children and grandson. It was like being with Nashville royalty and I thoroughly enjoyed observing her watching the performances, many of which she enthusiastically bopped her head along to. She jumped up with applause and blew kisses to the performers who were honoring her. Both Dolly Parton and Reba McEntire gave video tributes.

Mandrell became an Opry member at the age of 23 and is one of the more interesting stories in music. Her acting career ended up taking over for her music career and she traded the microphone for a role in the soap opera, “Sunset Beach.”

Her final concert performance, “The Last Dance” was at none other than the Grand Ole Opry in 1997. She retired at just 48-years-old and sold all of her instruments so as not to be tempted to return to the limelight.

The Washington Post reported, “Dressed smartly in a hot pink pantsuit and surrounded on stage by 50 dozen lavender-colored roses bought by her fans, Mandrell gave another goodbye from the same Opry stage 25 years later.”

“I chose my home to do my final performance on and it was this one,” Mandrell said. “God bless you!” she told fans before she walked off stage into the shadows.

In a recent online article for UDISCOVER, author Natalie Weiner reminds us, “The most important thing to understand about Barbara Mandrell is that she was a musical prodigy. Prodigy is, after all, the term most people would use to describe an 11-year-old who played pedal steel guitar (hardly a forgiving instrument) alongside adult professional musicians. Within a few years, she was joining Johnny Cash and Patsy Cline onstage to flaunt her skills.”

Although hugely successful across multiple Billboard charts, Mandrell received resistance from country purists who criticized her tendency toward the pop side of the country-pop spectrum and for her flashy stage shows. Her versatility is now credited for expanding country audiences on a massive scale and is perhaps better appreciated in retrospect. She responded to backlash through her legacy hit, I Was Country When Country Wasn’t Cool, reminding everyone, “I still act and look the same. What you see ain’t nothin new.”

At the time, she was drawing 40 million viewers starring in a top-rated weekly network television variety show called, “Barbara Mandrell & The Mandrell Sisters.”

She danced with James Brown, recorded with B.B. King and even won a Grammy Award for a gospel album. She hosted awards shows, wrote a bestselling autobiography, guest hosted The Tonight Show for Johnny Carson, and starred in a Vegas-style HBO special, “The Lady is a Champ.”

Mandrell is an important piece to the fabric of country music and there was no one better to help highlight that than Carrie Underwood. When country music brings the old and the new together, it is always something worth watching. The past and the present come together in one glorious moment of music.

The celebration was nothing short of legendary – just like the retired entertainer, herself. Highlights of the show included Underwood, of course, and CeCe Winans who both blew the roof off the Opry House. Other performers included Jeannie Seely, Connie Smith, Suzy Bogguss, Linda Davis, Mandy Barnett, and Janelle Arthur.

“There are so many great, great huge talented women that performed for us tonight and said so many incredible things about me…they know I love them. And the Opry…Lord knows I love the Opry,” shared Mandrell.

After the performance, Barbara’s daughter, Jaime Dudney, met me in the audience. She accepted a lei I brought for her mom from Hawaii. She said the family was going on vacation the next day and that she would give the lei to her mom at the lake.

The Grand Ole Opry is itself both a landmark and tourist attraction, as well as a legendary live show that is broadcast on radio, television and live streaming.

“The Grand Ole Opry” is a weekly American country music stage concert founded on November 28, 1925, by George D. Hay as a one-hour radio “barn dance” on WSM. Currently owned and operated by Opry Entertainment, it is the longest-running radio broadcast in US history.

The world-famous home of country music and the stage for legends, superstars and rising talent every week, at the Opry you can see a show and even take a backstage tour.

When you are in the area, stop for a bite at John A’s on Music Valley Drive. After helping to create the world famous Nashville Palace, John Anthony Hobbs, a Nashville native, decided it was time to have his own “Little Palace” and that’s where John A’s got its start. He wanted an establishment that would carry on the great tradition of the Nashville Palace all while making guests feel like they are a part of something intimate and special.

The food was exceptional, including perfectly grilled salmon, BLT on Parmesan garlic toast, Caesar salad, fried pickles and tasty wings. They have many tempting options from which to choose and also have an outdoor patio bar with entertainment.

Nashville has plenty of dining and entertainment options for many tastes, but it’s still country to the core. Variety may be the spice of life, but, like Mandrell, country is always cool.

Alaska: The Last Frontier

Alaska is known as “The Last Frontier” and it is a particularly fitting description for my journey there to see my 50th of the United States. Having just returned from an Inside Passage Alaskan cruise aboard the brand new Discovery Princess, I can now say I’m a proud member of the “All Fifty Club.”

Alaska was a Russian colony from 1744 until the USA bought it in 1867 for $7.2 million. It was made a state in 1959. Because of its great abundance of unsettled land, Alaska earned the nickname “The Last Frontier.” Its official motto, according to Alaska’s official website, is “North to the Future,” while the name “Alaska,” itself derives from the Aleut word “Aleyska,” meaning “Great Land.”

From the Emerald City to the Great Land, our journey followed the footsteps of the thrilling Yukon Gold Rush. The weeklong, round trip Inside Passage cruise from Seattle offered a convenient way to see this magnificent part of the world while sailing through a series of channels and waterways formed by the march of glaciers.

After a direct flight from Honolulu to Seattle, we rested for a night at the Seattle Airport Marriott then sailed from Seattle on Sunday afternoon aboard the brand new Discovery Princess, a Royal-class cruise ship operated by Princess Cruises. This is the vessel’s inaugural season in Alaska, having just made its maiden voyage out of Los Angeles to the Mexican Riviera in March of this year. She can accommodate up to 3,660 guests and 1,346 crew. We sailed at about half capacity.

There are many dining options, an array of entertainment and personalized services offered with the “MedallionClass” experience. Princess MedallionClass enables impeccable personalization and service, allowing you to get more out of your vacation. When you book a voyage on a MedallionClass-enabled ship, you can get started right away. All U.S. guests receive their free Medallion device either in the mail before leaving home or when they arrive at the terminal. International guests can pick up their Medallion device at the port. This quarter-sized device can be worn several ways. Carry it on your complimentary lanyard, or purchase additional accessories to wear it as a bracelet, necklace or clip.

Combined with the Princess MedallionClass app, you can use your medallion to access the ship’s WiFi, enter and exit your stateroom hands-free, order food and drinks anywhere on the ship, locate other members of your party or new friends that you’ve made along the journey, and navigate your way around the ship—your new home away from home. The medallion is also used to embark and disembark the vessel at all ports.

Originally, I reserved a deluxe balcony stateroom, but about a week or so before our cruise was scheduled to depart, I received an offer to pay a modest charge for an upgrade to a mini-suite, which offered an additional 100 square feet with two flat screen TV’s, a sitting area with sofa, queen sized bed and a bathroom that featured both a shower and tub, which is a luxury on board a ship. The extra space came in handy because my partner, Sam Yoder, and I brought along our two Yorkies, LuLu and Spike.

The crew set up a wooden box filled with cedar mulch as a relief area for our dogs. It was just down the hall from our mini-suite and located inside the crew stairwell/emergency exit area. Not only was it convenient but also the dogs used it eagerly.

Prepping for this trip was complicated not only because we brought along the dogs but also because of COVID. There was a lot of extra paperwork and expense involved. The cruise lines are not only mandating vaccinations but they are also requiring proof of a negative COVID test 72 hours prior or embarkation. I ordered our test kits online and they included a tele-health visit where a proctor observes your test and sends an email confirmation of your test results, which must be presented at the cruise ship terminal.

Since the new subvariants of the omicron strain took longer to make their way to the Hawaiian islands we call home, the COVID numbers were surging in the days and weeks leading up to our departure. This was making my anxiety elevated and then came the reports of positive cases at my work. Sam and I made the decision to stay home and isolate as much as possible in the week leading up to our COVID tests.

After passing our tests, traveling to Seattle and finally boarding the Discovery Princess, the sun was out for our sail away and we were treated to beautiful views of the city skyline, including the Space Needle. The next day at sea offered some time to rest and a chance to try the spa before our first port of call, Ketchikan.

We arrived in Ketchikan on Tuesday morning. The forecast was rain and 50’s. However, much to my delight, when I opened the curtains to our balcony, the sun was shining. This charming port city reminded me of Norway or Ushuaia, Argentina. Ketchikan is often called the “Gateway to Southeast Alaska” as it is the southernmost city on the Inside Passage.

For our excursion, I chose a visit to the Saxman Native Village and Totem Pole Park. We began our two-and-half hour tour with a short motorcoach ride to the Saxman Native Village where we experienced the rich living culture of southeast Alaska’s Native Indigenous Peoples. Since there were no wars or formal treaties between Alaska Natives and the federal government, no reservations were established. The tribes live on land in native villages.

Once you arrive, you’ll be greeted with an elaborate tribal ceremony, the same way the Tlingits have welcomed visitors for generations. After a short video introducing you to the culture and history of Saxman, you’ll enter the Beaver Clan House. Inside, you’ll get to witness tribal members perform traditional songs and dances and tell tales.

The visit continued with a chance to learn more about the impressive totem poles that are a unique part of the Native Alaskan culture. At Saxman Totem Park, the guide helps unravel the mysteries of these towering, majestic works of art. You’ll then get to visit the Village Carving Center where carvers are busily working, passing on the craft to eager young apprentices. Applying skills passed down for centuries, these craftsmen create some of the most sought-after Native art in the world. A stop at the Village Store provides an opportunity to purchase some of the finest Native art available or a memento of your visit. I bought a simple, small totem pole to display in my office.

On the return trip back to the ship, we got to see Alaska’s busiest waterfront, bustling with floatplanes and boats. We drove by infamous Creek Street, Ketchikan’s former red-light district during the Gold Rush, and saw historic residential areas and the turn-of-the-century style downtown area, where you can shop for traditional and unique Alaskan souvenirs.

Sailing from Ketchikan, Captain John Smith informed us that we would be treated to some beautiful natural landscapes of mountains—both green and snow capped—and also the opportunity to see wildlife. “You’ll want to be on your balconies around 7:00-7:30 as there were whales breaching earlier.”

Sam went and bought us binoculars at the photo shop and, after seeing tons of dolphins, he spotted whales. Just as he went inside to grab his phone to take pictures, I witnessed one of the humpback calves jump completely out of the water and splash down on its side. This same calf repeated the breaching a couple more times. We live in Hawaii and have seen our share of whales, but we have never witnessed something so magical when whale watching.

We also saw many bald eagles, including one that flew directly toward our balcony and seemed to veer away only as it got really close to our ship. We ordered room service from the Crown Grill steakhouse that evening and enjoyed it as we attended Mother Nature’s show, featuring a full display of magnificent wildlife and natural splendor. Indeed, the mountains seem to go on and on forever. Once you think they are ending, you begin sailing along another chain.

As if Mother Nature hadn’t put on enough of a performance the night before, we got up at 5:00 a.m. for scenic cruising of Endicott Arm Fjord. This narrow fjord is located approximately 50 miles southeast of Juneau and is part of the Tracy Arm-Fords Terror Wilderness area.

Breathtaking Endicott Arm extends over 30 miles long, with nearly one-fifth of its area covered in ice. At the head of the fjord, tidewater glaciers, such as the Dawes Glacier, regularly expel enormous chunks of ice into the waters below in a magnificent process known as calving. During the summer when Princess ships visit, icebergs float along the surface of the glistening water.

We continued our journey on toward Juneau. Located in the Gastineau Channel and the Alaskan panhandle, Juneau is the capital city of the state and stands on one of the largest wilderness areas in the United States. Juneau is unlike any other city in the United States. With no roads connecting it to the rest of Alaska or North America, it is truly a protected destination. Founded as a gold mining town and now the state’s capital, Juneau has one foot in history and one in the future.

We arrived just in time for lunch and since they don’t serve Alaskan King crab legs on board the Discovery Princess, we set out to find some for me to enjoy. Sam cannot indulge because of his shellfish allergy. We made our way to the line at Tracy’s King Crab Shack but after looking at the menu that had no options for Sam, we decided to go to a restaurant recommended by friends who were on a similar cruise the week earlier, called The Hangar On The Wharf. I got my crab fix and Sam was able to order a burger. We enjoyed our meal while watching the bustling waterfront, including the tram making its way up and down the mountaintop.

After lunch, Sam took LuLu and Spike back to the ship for a nap while I went on a solo excursion—a helicopter landing on Mendenhall Glacier. The weather was perfectly magnificent for a helicopter ride so I was in luck. Sometimes, the excursions are canceled when Mother Nature doesn’t cooperate.

Flying over and walking on the magical Mendenhall Glacier is a bucket list experience no one will ever forget. It began with a short transfer to the helipad base. After checking in and a safety briefing, I was ready for takeoff. Soon, I was up in the wild blue yonder, enjoying breathtaking views seen only by a few.

With this unique eagle’s-eye-view, I enjoyed panoramic vistas of the verdant rain forests, alpine ridges, and mountain peaks that create a dramatic setting for the awe-inspiring Mendenhall Glacier. The flight took me and my fellow passengers over the glacier, ice spires, deep blue crevasses and meltwater pools. A gentle landing brought us onto the ice itself, where we explored the glacier’s surface for approximately 25 minutes with highly experienced, expert guides, who pointed out a white mountain goat and its baby high on the steep mountain above us, expertly navigating their footing across a waterfall.

After I returned to town from the helicopter excursion, Sam and the dogs met me at the Goldbelt Tram. In operation since 1996, the tram makes a six-minute ascent of 3,819-foot Mount Roberts from the cruise ship docks to a height of about 1,800 feet. The cost was just as steep—$90 round trip for two. However, it’s much cheaper if you book in advance through the ship’s shore excursions. It’s also cheaper if you hike up and take the tram down, costing only $15. But we were short on time and extra on weight, so I paid the higher fee and we have the priceless photos as memories. We even got good shots of our ship from the vista.

Back on board the Discovery Princess, we reminisced about the sights of the day over a scrumptious five-course dinner at the specialty Italian restaurant, Sabatini’s Italian Trattoria. The overly indulgent meal begins with soup or salad, followed by antipasti, pasta, entrée and dessert. Sam’s favorite was the pork tenderloin and I quickly devoured the delicious sole piccata. For dessert, you can do a mini flight sampling several of the sweet offerings. I opted for the Ferrero Rocher-inspired option, which was a feature of the Chocolate Journeys. In 2014, Princess Cruises formed a partnership with master chocolatier and pastry designer Norman Love to create ‘Chocolate Journeys,’ featuring custom-crafted desserts, chocolate and wine pairings, and chocolate bites created by one of the top names in artisan chocolate.

Each evening after dinner, Sam enjoyed time in the aroma therapy showers, steam rooms, saunas and hot tubs at the spa. You can buy a package the first day of the cruise for $139, allowing access to the spa’s private facilities for the week. I stayed “home” in the mini-suite with the dogs, captivated by the breathtaking scenery; watching reruns of “The Love Boat” on demand; and sometimes ordering a midnight snack from room service through the app on my phone. Sam spent so much “time” in the casino at night that they invited us to take our next cruise complimentary. We are hoping to sail the Mexican Riviera with my parents this fall.

Our last port of call in Alaska was Skagway. Again, we were so thankful to have a gorgeous, sunny day. The temps weren’t too bad, either—mostly in the high 50’s and low 60’s at each port in Alaska. For our excursion in Skagway, we booked the White Pass & Yukon Route Railway, which boards directly at the pier.

Built in 1898 during the Klondike Gold Rush, this narrow gauge railroad is an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark. We experienced the breathtaking views from Skagway into the heart of the Yukon and agree that the White Pass & Yukon Route Railway is “The Scenic Railway of the World” that symbolizes accomplishment in adventure and pioneering – of triumph over challenge. All along the way, there is a highly informative, live narration that gives the history of the Gold Rush and the construction of the railway. It’s unbelievable how many humans and animals lost their lives in the pursuit of striking it rich. In the end, not too many succeeded. As is the case with everyone we talk to who has done the Alaskan cruise, the train was definitely a highlight of our trip.

After the train ride, we walked around Skagway then made the long walk back to the ship. There are terrific photo ops of the cruise ships when they are docked in Skagway.

That night, the ship’s casino comped our meal at the Crown Grill steakhouse. It was much better to eat at the actual restaurant than to order from room service. When we ordered the steakhouse food delivered to our room, they forgot the steak knives and the butter for the baked potatoes! “First World Problems,” I know, but by the time they got us what we needed the food was not hot.

In person, Sam ordered the 22 oz. Porterhouse. He had the same black and blue onion soup that we had enjoyed from the room service order. They use some blue cheese crumbles in the delicious, gooey cheese mix on top, a garlic crouton and some thyme and Jack Daniels. It’s to die for! This time around, however, I chose the Alaskan crab cake for a starter and ordered the Chilean sea bass, which was melt-in-your-mouth fabulous. It’s a good thing cruise calories don’t count because we both took the waiter’s advice and indulged in the salted caramel crème brûlée cheesecake.

After dinner we attended the Captain’s Circle Party in the Vista Lounge where we met Captain John Smith and some of the crew. They provided entertainment and refreshments.

In addition to the specialty restaurants, we also visited the World Fresh Marketplace (buffet) a few times and enjoyed Gigi’s Pizzeria a couple of times. Gigi’s is a charming sit-down venue offering an enticing menu of freshly prepared individual-size pizzas along with salads and pastas. My personal favorite, and the only option open 24 hours (besides room service), is the International Café. Serving as an integral element of Princess’ Piazza hub, the International Café is situated in one corner and consists of a coffee bar and three glass display cases filled with tempting treats, both sweet and savory. Just tell the crew member behind the counter what you’d like and take your treat to one of the Piazza’s many tables. It’s busiest early in the morning when people are most in need of a caffeine fix and also when passengers are returning to the ship from shore excursions.

Besides a plethora of dining choices, the cruise always has a variety of entertainment options, including theatrical extravaganzas, guest entertainers, game shows and trivia, social gatherings for various interests and lectures to learn more about the ports.

I was lamenting the absence of the major production “Rock Opera” during our cruise. I inquired and was told by the guest services staff that the show had been cancelled during our sailing because of injuries and sickness (not COVID) among the cast. Much to my delight, on the final afternoon and evening of our sailing, the cast presented the “Rock Opera” show and it didn’t disappoint. I attended the early show while Sam was at the spa and we went back later to see it together. I didn’t mind seeing it twice and Sam thought the cast was extremely talented.

Later that evening, our ship made a final call on Victoria, Canada for the evening before sailing back to Seattle, where we disembarked to much worse weather than the week before. It was cold and rainy!

We enjoyed a day of sightseeing and more eating with Todd and Kym Taniguchi. Kym’s Aunt is our neighbor in Hawaii, Aunty June. The Taniguchis showed us the aloha spirit while we visited the Emerald City. They took us to the Starbucks Reserve Roastery and Tasting Room, Pike’s Place Market, Cutter’s for chowder, the original Nordstrom and then on to Bellevue for a five-star dining experience at Ascend Prime Steak and Sushi. After spending the night again at the Seattle Airport Marriott, we went our separate ways the next day— I returned to Hawaii and Sam went back to Ohio to tend to business.

Truth be told, Alaska wasn’t on my list until recently when I inched closer and closer to seeing all 50 states. I guess in a way I saved the best for last as the natural beauty is endless. We even caught a faint glimpse of the Northern Lights. Cheers to the Land of the Midnight Sun.

Moloka’i: The Friendly Island

For the past few years, when my Dad comes to visit us on Oahu from the mainland, he often makes an island hop to Moloka’i with our local cousins to hunt axis deer. They stay with a family who lives on Moloka’i, Vaai “Trip” and Omi Seumalo. We did not get a chance to see the Seumalos on our visit to “The Friendly Island” because they are recovering from a severe bout with COVID-19, which they contracted while visiting their son in college on the mainland. A successful Go Fund Me campaign was established by their pastor to assist with medical expenses and they were able to make it back home to Moloka’i where they have a long road of recovery ahead of them.

On previous visits to the island, my Dad would text us the most beautiful photos of the red dirt, green vegetation and bright blue skies.  Omi has taken my Dad around the island to see the various sites and he wanted us to have a chance to see the natural beauty for ourselves.

We agreed that we could cover most of the island in a one-day visit so we left early on a Saturday morning and returned the same evening. Mokulele Airlines has multiple daily flights between Honolulu and Moloka’i Airport. They are tiny planes and it’s almost like an amusement park ride if you’re not too scared.

The first thing that strikes a visitor to the Hawaiian island of Moloka’i is how empty it is. From the approach of the propeller-driven airplane that brings you from bustling Oahu or Maui, you see mile after mile of beaches with no sign of people, and square mile after mile of scrubland marked by nothing more than occasional red dirt roads. It seems a throwback to an older, simpler Hawaii, before mass tourism, high-rise hotels, crowded beaches, and traffic gridlock.

On Moloka’i, there is not a single traffic light, and the only things that might be called traffic are a few pickup trucks waiting for a parking spot along the three-block-long main street of the island’s single sizable town, Kaunakakai, population roughly 3,000. Somewhat more than 7,000 people live on the island—about a half percent of the state of Hawaii’s population of 1.4 million. There are only a handful of restaurants more ambitious than burger shacks and lunch wagons, spread over the island’s 38-mile length.

For decades, residents of Moloka’i have resisted private developers’ attempts to increase tourism because of the irreparable changes to community and culture that are associated with a tourism industry. Accommodations are limited, and there is only one hotel on the island. Most tourists find lodgings at rental condos and houses.

According to Smithsonian Magazine, local activists have used federal and state laws protecting archaeological remains to block, slow, or minimize development and to assert the rights of contemporary Hawaiians to hunt, fish, and gather on private lands. For most Hawaii residents, Moloka’i defines what is called “outer island” Hawaii—peripheral and rarely visited. For most of the world, it connotes remoteness. Its mere name conjures visions of the tragic leper colony founded in 1866 on the inaccessible Kalaupapa Peninsula, a place chosen for its isolation as a quarantine site for the thousands of people, most of them Native Hawaiians with little immunity to the disease, who were torn from their families and exiled there to die.

Yet Moloka’i isn’t remote. It sits dead center of the main Hawaiian chain, only 25 miles from Oahu, with its population of nearly 1 million, and just 8.5 miles from bustling Maui. On most days it is visible from both, as well as from Lana’i, and, on a clear day, even the Big Island of Hawaii.

Nor is it especially small. It is nearly twice the size of neighboring Lanaʻi, with more than double the population, but shares with it many characteristics, including having long been mostly controlled by outsiders. Nearly 85 percent of Moloka’i is controlled by seven owners, all but one of them headquartered off-island.

Moloka’i boasts the longest fringing coral reef and the longest white sand beach in the state, and the tallest sea cliffs in the world. It has all of the things the other islands have that can be turned to profit: well-watered valleys good for traditional Polynesian agriculture, flat land suitable for modern farming, shorelines protected from waves, and all the lovely beaches, swaying palms, towering waterfalls, and rainforests to attract tourists.

Molokai’s trouble is that it has fewer of these attractive things than its larger neighbors—and many more unprofitable features. Much of the island is inhospitable. The entire north coast is girded by plunging cliffs and pounded by giant ocean swells. Most of the eastern half is made up of steep mountains and deep canyons. And most of the western half is typically dry. The entire island is raked by stiff trade winds. The places of abundance are, relative to its neighbors, few and small. It is this relative lack of resources that forms the backdrop to understanding Molokai’s history and its present.

In the Polynesian period, Moloka’i, close at hand and weaker than neighboring islands, beckoned powerful outsiders to conquer and exploit, often en route to larger battles elsewhere. For centuries, all the way up to King Kamehameha I in the early 1800s, Hawaiian armies moving between Oahu, Maui, and Hawaii, stopped and fought over the island, often laying it to waste. The island was known as a place easy to subjugate, but because so much of its land area is inaccessible—steep upland forests, sheer sea cliffs girding wave-blasted, rocky coastlines where small, dispersed communities held out—it’s proven difficult to fully subdue and rule from outside.

These smaller populations and places cultivated a reputation for strong spiritual practices used to resist outsiders. One was famed for a type of poison trees, kalaipahoa; another for its anti-chief sorcery. Indeed, the island was called O Molokai i ka pule oʻo, “Molokai of the powerful prayer,” a place of sorcery and poisons used against outsiders, and misty, remote places of refuge beyond their grasp.

Where outside chiefs did achieve control, they bent the people and the land to producing a surplus, mostly of kalo (taro) and hogs, for their own aggrandizement—a process anthropologists call agricultural “intensification.” In a landscape where water is as unevenly distributed as Hawaii, the key to this intensification was control of water, used for the irrigation systems that underlie Polynesian farming. With it came control of land, of people, of wealth, and of the very structure of society. As all over Polynesia, what developed in these fertile places was a pyramid, with a hereditary aristocracy ruling, through its monopoly control of water, over a highly class-stratified society.

And, as happened elsewhere in Hawaii and in Polynesia, agricultural intensification had serious environmental side effects. Expanding irrigation systems farther up watersheds into steeper, more erodible topography was achieved by the felling and burning of forests to clear land, all of which increased erosion, thereby damaging soils. The effects were cascading. Increasing portions of an already fragile landscape were deforested, eroded, and desiccated by Polynesian Hawaiians over the centuries after their arrival in the islands, roughly 1,000 years ago.

Though seemingly paradoxical, environmental degradation was “good” for those at the top of the social pyramid. First, it directly converted complex natural ecosystems into simplified factories for surplus production. Second, degraded landscapes stressed or destroyed the subsistence communities that had thrived outside of the fertile areas, forcing more people into the system of monopoly control by ruling chiefs.

These patterns on Moloka’i were continued, and amplified, after contact with the outside world, beginning with Captain Cook’s arrival in 1778. Investors and speculators, including newly dollar-minded Hawaiian kings from Oahu, came to Moloka’i to squeeze a profit out of it. Sugar growing, which dominated Hawaii for 100 years, was attempted at several scales, but failed for lack of sufficient water. Pineapple, well-matched to the climate, was successfully grown by two outside corporations, Dole Food Company and Del Monte Foods, for much of the 20th century, until competition from larger, lower-wage competitors in Latin America and Asia drove Moloka’i out of the business.

One business did succeed, ironically, because of environmental limitations: livestock grazing. A perverse law of resource development states that even badly degraded land, if there is enough of it, can support big operations, if the right commodity can be produced in sufficient quantities. The scale of the effort then abets itself, setting up a destructive feedback loop. Soon after cattle, sheep, and goats were introduced to Moloka’i in the 19th century, they quickly helped to destroy what was left of the native flora, leaving much of island nearly barren but for alien, introduced grasses—therefore useable only for more grazing.

Outsiders bought larger and larger pieces of land, many of the parcels purchased cheap from Native Hawaiians who lacked cash and investment capital for the enterprise. More intensive grazing in turn drove more degradation—more deforestation, desiccation, and erosion. Traditional subsistence options were disrupted. Springs dried up, fishponds filled in with mud washed down from the uplands, reefs were likewise smothered, and communities were forced to retreat or breakup, their members scattered to work in the wage economy elsewhere.

In the 20th century, cattle ranching dominated the West End and the far East End, while two large, vertically integrated pineapple plantations laid claim to much of the center of the island. Both sectors were intensive and extensive, monoculture producers of cash commodities for export, with the profits expatriated to outside owners. All were racially stratified, with a small number of white owners and managers supervising a nonwhite workforce.

Maunaloa on the West End, for five decades the headquarters of a large, California-owned plantation, was laid out according to a strict racial hierarchy. Filipino town, for the field workers, with wooden dormitories, lay at the lowest point on the slope. Japanese town, for the lunas, or field bosses, with wooden, shared houses, was adjacent and slightly uphill. “The Hill,” for the whites, had American-style, concrete-block houses complete with plumbing and electricity. All of these enterprises were outside-owned and reliant on near-monopoly control of water and land. All were possible due to previous environmental degradation, and all caused more of it, especially erosion, with the added heavy use of chemicals such as fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides, and fungicides. Residues of these substances still linger in the soil, posing a challenge to those now attempting to make a go of small farming on the island.

In recent decades, a small but vocal group of Moloka’i residents has aggressively opposed plans for economic development, protesting and successfully blocking proposals for hotels, condominiums, golf courses, cruise ship visits, inter-island ferry service, and wind energy (the notably windy island remains powered by expensive, imported diesel generation). A long and bitter standoff over proposed residential development between activists and the island’s largest landowner and employer, Moloka’i Ranch, resulted in the closure of all the ranch’s operations in 2008 and the loss of 120 jobs. So fragile is Molokai’s economy that the unemployment rate jumped from 6.2 percent in 2007 to 13.7 percent in 2009 as a result. Some snidely call it the “Welfare Island.”

For many in Moloka’i, subsistence strategies such as fishing, hunting (mostly non-native axis deer), and small-scale farming have become economically essential. Furthermore, these strategies have come to represent Hawaiianness. The desire to preserve culture has taken on a posture of resistance to the market economy in general and to specific proposals of economic “development,” even if they might benefit the community.

The divisive climate on the island is palpable, and visible. On leaving the airport, visitors see a hand-painted sign: “Visit, Spend, Go Home.” It has had an undeniable effect. The number of visitors as tourists slid from 103,477 in 1990 to 59,132 in 2014—a decline of 43 percent. Even the Kalaupapa mule ride, an iconic tourist stop, has closed.

Moloka’i shows how such places can become caught in cycles of degradation, exploitation, and marginalization.  One feels a mild sense of guilt by indulging in a visit to “the friendly isle,” almost as if trespassing on sacred land.  Despite the challenges, we felt it was important to visit the island and explore the natural beauty, and thankfully, despite opposition to tourism, the locals were all friendly.  Mother Nature was also in a good mood and blessed us with a gorgeous, sunny day.

After picking up the rental SUV, we passed a sign upon exiting the airport, which reads:

“ALOHA

SLOW DOWN

MOLOKAI

NO WIND MILLS OR CABLE.”

There’s also an adjacent sign that advertises free coconuts that you can mail from the US Post Office at Ho’oleahua.

We made our way to our first stop, Kalaupapa Lookout. From an elevation of approximately 1,600 feet, you can look down onto the Kalaupapa Peninsula of Moloka’i and the winding trail that leads down to the settlement. The area achieved notoriety when the Kingdom of Hawaii instituted a century-long policy of forced segregation of persons afflicted with Hansen’s disease, more commonly known as leprosy. The majestic Pali Coast sea cliffs are also visible in the distance.

The Kalaupapa Peninsula remains one of the most remote locations in Hawaii due to unique volcanic and geologic activity over millions of years. Molokai’s famous sea cliffs are responsible for this and are among the highest in the world at 3,000 feet above sea level. Geologists thought that these cliffs were carved by wind and water erosion, but it is now believed that they formed after a third of the northern portion of the island collapsed into the sea. 

In 1866, during the reign of Kamehameha V, the Hawaii legislature passed a law that resulted in the designation of Molokaʻi as the site for a leper colony where patients who were seriously affected by Hansen’s disease could be quarantined, to prevent them from infecting others. At the time, the disease was little understood, and it was believed to be highly contagious and was incurable until the advent of antibiotics. The communities where people with leprosy lived were under the administration of the Board of Health, which appointed superintendents on the island.

Also near the lookout is the famous Phallic Rock. This natural rock formation, true to its name, “protrudes obscenely from the ground amid an ironwood stand as thick as pubic hair” according to one travel guide. The guide goes on to say, “Legend has it that a woman offering gifts and spending the night here will return home pregnant.”

From the lookout we drove to Kaunakakai Town, the island’s largest town, devoid of traffic lights, big box stores and fast food restaurants. If you want to fuel your caffeine addiction, stop at the Hula Bean Café, the only place on the island that serves espresso. While waiting for our order of lattes, frappes and a variety of sandwiches, a couple of the ladies from the Moloka’i Minimart came out to admire our dogs. After about a 45-minute wait (nothing is rushed here—everything is on island time), we got our refreshments, which we enjoyed on our leisurely drive along the south shore of the island.

Even though it’s the same road, you’ll note from the map that it has two highway numbers: 450 and 460. Kamehameha V Highway (450) starts at Kaunakakai and ends 27 miles east at Halawa. Maunaloa Highway (460) also begins at Kaunakakai, passes the airport at Ho’olehua and ends 16 miles west at the village of Maunaloa. Turn at mile 15 to reach the Kaluakoi Resort area. To get to Kualapu’u, Kala’e and the Kalaupapa lookout, take Highway 470 where it branches from 460 in the middle of the island. There are green mile posts every mile. Directions to someone’s house, an attraction, or a great beach usually include the nearest mile marker number or landmark.

Along the way you’ll enjoy views of Molokai’s south shore with its azure blue nearshore waters, open grasslands and mountains. Molokai’s shallow flats along the south shore were ideal for building fishponds. At certain times of year the Hawaiians made fishing forbidden. This was done to protect the resource. Hence, they used fishponds to provide the needed protein.

Maintenance was and is a continual issue for fishponds. The waves tear-up the walls. You may see work in progress as local people continue the tradition. Notice the gates where small fish can swim in but large fish can’t swim out.

An important first stop along the panoramic drive to Halawa Valley is at St. Damien Church. Saint Damien Church, formerly known as Saint Joseph’s Church or Father Damien Church, is located in Kamalo on Molokai’s south shore.  Saint Damien was a Belgian Catholic missionary priest who served the people of Moloka’i, especially people who were infected with leprosy and had to live in exile on Molokai’s isolated Kalaupapa peninsula. This is where St. Damien served and nurtured his ministry from 1866. He contracted the disease himself and passed away in 1889.

Damien built four churches on Moloka’i, two of which are still standing today. In 1874, he built Our Lady of Seven Sorrows Church in Kalua’aha. Two years later, in 1876, he built St. Joseph Church in Kamalo, the second oldest church on the island. A statue of St. Damien stands next to the church, which is often times adorned with flower leis in honor of him. The door to the church is usually closed but not locked, so people can visit the inside of it as well. The church is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Winding Highway 450 hugs the pristine eastern Moloka’i coast and offers dramatic views. With rocky shoreline, deserted beaches and deep green jungle, this scenic drive delivers. In addition to the spectacular views, the drive to and from Halawa Valley is thrilling. It’s definitely not for the faint of heart with several blind curves wrapped around extremely narrow stretches only one-lane wide. This is like a miniature version of the famous Road to Hana on Maui.

If you are making plans to visit Halawa Valley on your Moloka’i vacation, make sure you have enough gas. From memory, I do not recall any gas stations on this drive outside of Kaunakakai, the main town of Moloka’i. From Kaunakakai, the drive to Halawa Valley is approximately 28 miles. Watch out for the axis deer darting across the road (we saw several).

Allow plenty of time for your journey to and from Halawa Valley. Though the distance from Kaunakakai to the valley is only 28 miles, you need to plan at least an hour (each way) to make the drive. Most of the road is fairly easy to drive. It’s paved and mostly straight, but the last seven to eight miles require extreme attention with the hairpin curves and single lane sections. Don’t be in a hurry.  You will undoubtedly have to reverse, pull to the side and yield to oncoming vehicles.

Make plans to bring food and drinks. You’ll likely see several lovely spots to stop for a picnic along the way. Take note that outside of Kaunakakai, there’s only a couple of places to get food and drink. Approximately 16 miles from Kaunakakai, Mana’e Goods and Grindz sells local-style hot food. Pu’u O Hoku Ranch sells fresh organic fruits and vegetables, but no prepared foods. The ranch is located approximately 25 miles from Kaunakakai.

Always give priority to the local drivers. If a local resident is behind you, pull over to allow them to pass as soon as it is safe to do so.  Public restroom facilities are available at Halawa Beach Park, near the end of the road.  There are spectacular photo ops along the way but one must be careful when stopping along the curves of the road.  I stuck my iPhone out of the window several times and got the most amazing photos. Everywhere you look is like a post card.  My Mom said that one of my pictures “would make a great puzzle.”

Driving back to Kaunakakai from Halawa Valley, we were treated to sensational views of Maui. The icing on the cake were the many active whales in the channel between the islands. The whales were plentiful and they were breaching and spouting.

Once we made it back to town, we stopped at one of only three gas stations, the Kalamas Service Station. The ladies we met earlier at the minimart said we could buy souvenirs at the Kalamas Service Station, which is owned by our family friend Trip’s brother, and also serves milkshakes. We refueled the rental and laughed at the signs on the gas pumps indicating the various options, “Regular Kine,” “Better Kine,” and “Da Best Kine.” It’s a whopping $5.32 a gallon for da regular kine.

After refueling and purchasing the only men’s souvenir tank top on the island, we drove out to the Old Kaunakakai Harbor. In Kaunakakai across from Church Row, we also visited Kapuaiwa Coconut Grove, an ancient Hawaiian coconut grove planted in the 1860s during the reign of King Kamehameha V. With hundreds of coconut palm trees, this is one of Molokai’s most recognizable natural landmarks. Watch out for falling coconuts. The safest view of the grove is from the grassy area found off Maunaloa Highway.

Having taken in the majority of the island, we managed to hop on an earlier flight back to Oahu. We smiled as we gazed at views of the world’s tallest sea cliffs in the distance from the window of the tiny plane and also flew over the Papohaku Beach Park with its three-miles of undisturbed coastline. Moloka’i is a delightful destination offering a glimpse of Old Hawaii.

I’ve now been to six of the eight Hawaiian Islands, Oahu, Maui, Kauai, Hawaii (The Big Island), Lana’i and Moloka’i. The other two, Niihau and Kahoolawe remain the most desolate, isolated and difficult to visit among the island chain. 

Niihau is nicknamed “The Forbidden Island,” and is privately owned and maintained by the Robinson Family. There are no ferry services taxiing tourists to Niihau from the other islands, and no flights there either. That means you only have two options for visiting the island: take a helicopter tour from Kauai or reserve a spot on a hunting safari.

The smallest of the eight main Hawaiian Islands, Kahoolawe and its surrounding waters are by law off-limits to the public. Your only way ashore is through volunteer work opportunities offered throughout the year. Volunteers meet on Maui on Monday morning, before being ferried over to Kahoolawe where they work from Monday through Thursday. There is a $100 fee that covers transportation from Maui to Kahoolawe, food and boarding costs.

Moloka’i is arguably the most naturally beautiful of the islands due to its lack of development. Lana’i is by far the most luxurious, offering private air from Honolulu and accommodations at not one, but two Four Seasons Resorts. All of the islands have their own unique flavor and abundance of beauty. Of course, none are lacking the warmth and friendliness of the aloha spirit.

 

Broadway Bender

Some people spend a long weekend binging on Netflix.  Others like to have a good time smoking, drinking and carrying on.  I chose to take a short (in duration) but very lengthy (in travel time) trip from Honolulu to New York City for a long weekend. 

 

I left Thursday night and came back Monday night. When I texted my childhood friend Sharon Itts in Florida what I was doing, she texted back, “You make it sound like it’s just down the street LOL!”

 

In actuality, it was 10,000 miles round trip! It took me 21 hours from the time I woke up in my hotel room in New York on Monday morning until I returned home on Monday night to Mililani, Hawaii. It was an exhausting but exhilarating Broadway bender. And I had the hangover to prove it. I was tired, sore and had a headache when I awoke on Tuesday morning.

 

I had a total of just three nights and two full days in the Big Apple and my goals were ambitious, including seeing five Broadway shows and trying some new restaurants in addition to crossing paths with old friends. Oh and of course some shopping! I certainly got enough exercise walking to offset all of the calories.

I fell in love with New York City the first time my Dad let me tag along with him on a business trip when I was seven years old.  We ate at Mama Leone’s and stayed at The Roosevelt Hotel.  Mama Leone’s closed in 1994 and The Roosevelt Hotel recently closed after 100 years in business, a victim of the pandemic. 

 

I remember all of my senses coming alive when we emerged from the Lincoln Tunnel and arrived in Manhattan. The people, the cars, the horns, the skyscrapers, the smells and all the flurry of activity was absolutely super charged. 

 

This was before they cleaned up 42nd street with the drugs, prostitution and Peep Shows.  I remember begging my Dad to take me to Peep Shows, which only cost a quarter.  Being a naïve boy from Ohio, I mistakenly thought they were baby chickens!  My Dad also took me to the Statue of Liberty where we climbed to the top of the torch and looked out at Manhattan from a breathtaking panoramic viewpoint.

 

I have made countless trips to New York over the years with my parents, with friends, and also by myself.  One of my favorite activities is going to Broadway shows.  I was introduced to the theatre by my late Great Aunt Rose who lived in Cleveland.  I used to spend occasional weekends with her and we would bake cookies, walk malls, go to the ice capades, and attend tours of Broadway shows.   

 

My partner’s Mom, Geri Yoder “Mama G,” recently passed away and we attended many musicals together in Toledo, Columbus, Cleveland and Chicago. It was bittersweet making this trip by myself because on the one hand it was a welcome distraction from the recent loss but also a constant reminder of how much she and I traveled together over the years and enjoyed shows together. We talked about making a trip together to New York but never made it. I could feel her spirit with me throughout the adventure-filled weekend.

 

Over the years I’ve seen countless Broadway productions, including the original casts of Hairspray, Rent, The Lion King, Wicked, and Motown The Musical, among many others. I’ve witnessed big name and Tony-award winning stars performing on the Great White Way, including Bernadette Peters, k.d. lang, Leslie Uggams, Delta Burke, Bryan Cranston, Denzel Washington, Idina Menzel, Kristin Chenoweth, Vanessa Williams, Hugh Jackman, Harvey Fierstein, Marissa Jarret Winokur, Alan Cumming, Glenn Close, Bette Midler, Alan Alda, Victor Garber, Cicely Tyson, Henry Winlker, Allison Janney, David Hyde Pierce, Linda Lavin, and John Leguizamo. I’m sure there are others I’m forgetting. Julia Roberts once sat in front of me during a Sunday matinee of La Boheme.

 

Probably the most memorable Broadway experience was when, after a summer of relentless begging, my parents caved and took me to see Madonna in the David Mamet play, Speed The Plow. It was 1988 and we sat in the third row of the orchestra on the aisle for her final matinee performance, along with co-stars, Joe Mantegna and Ron Silver.

 

My Dad bought me roses from one of the street markets.  At the curtain call, I took the flowers to the stage and laid them at Madonna’s feet.  She looked at me and said, “Thank You.”  We found out later she would notoriously throw all the flowers she received out of her dressing room window onto the sidewalk below.  We stood at the stage door with anticipation until finally, the doors swung open and Madonna, along with then husband Sean Penn, ran from the theatre into a waiting limousine. 

 

Standing in line for my first show on Friday night, the excitement in the air was emotional and contagious as the ushers proclaimed, “Welcome Back to Broadway!”  After shutting down for a year and half during the pandemic, everyone in line seemed thrilled to be heading inside for a live theatre experience.  There are new rules in place, and everyone entering the theatre must show proof of vaccination (or a recent negative COVID-19 test) as well as a photo ID.  Masks must be worn during the duration of the performance.

 

The first show I took in during this Broadway bender was Jagged Little Pill, a Tony award nominee for Best Musical developed by and featuring the music of Alanis Morissette.  The cast and show were both phenomenal and included Lauren Patten, who won the Tony award for her performance as a Featured Actress in a Musical.    

 

The show began previews on Broadway in November 2019, and opened on December 5, 2019. For the 74th Tony Awards, Jagged Little Pill received 15 nominations, the most of any show of the 2019–2020 season. It also won the Grammy Award for Best Musical Theater Album.

 

Jagged Little Pill centers on the Healy family: MJ and Steve and their teenage children Frankie and Nick. The Healy’s appear to be the picture perfect family in their competitive Connecticut suburban neighborhood. Yet pictures can be deceiving. Despite her efforts to keep up appearances, MJ battles a growing addiction to opiates following a car accident and battles with trauma in her past that she has not yet come to terms with. Steve watches his wife become increasingly withdrawn and distant from him, without knowing why. Meanwhile their children are battling challenges of their own. Frankie is determined to find her own voice and discover her sexuality, while Nick must balance the pressure of his parents to do well against exposing his own faults in order to make sure justice is served. Exploring a range of sensitive issues, including rape, sexuality, addiction, and racism, Jagged Little Pill presents a vivid, messy, and chaotic portrayal of a modern-day family who deal with their pain and try to heal.

After the emotional and moving show, I walked about 10 blocks to the Halal Guys Food Truck outside of the Hilton midtown, a very large hotel property that is a good place to stay but a bit of a hike from the theatres.  I have stayed there before which is why I remembered the chicken pita sandwiches from the Halal Guys. 

 

Similar to kosher food in the Jewish religion, Halal is an Arabic word meaning lawful or permitted. In reference to food, it is the dietary standard, as prescribed in the Qur’an (the Muslim scripture).  There are many food carts serving halal, but the best is still the original, Halal Guys.

 

The Halal Guys’ incredible journey began in 1990 with three Egyptian founders. They first started a hot dog cart in New York City, then pivoted to selling Halal food to Muslim taxi drivers who at the time had few outlets for authentic Halal food in the five boroughs. Thus, their famous platters of chicken and gyro over rice, falafel sandwiches, and crave-able sauces were born.

 

Word spread about the unique American Halal food offered by the Halal Guys, and the fanbase quickly expanded beyond Muslim cabbies to a much larger, diverse demographic of Americans eager to experience new and exotic tastes, textures, and flavors. Their original carts operated around the clock, serving guests in signature long lines that extended down the block. From lunch rushes to late-night food runs, Halal Guys have always been there for customers with cravings. The continued, enthusiastic demand for their fresh, delicious food and warm hospitality justified an expansion to bring authentic American Halal food to a wider audience.  Halal Guys is one of the fastest-growing restaurant chains in America, with more locations to come, throughout the country as well as internationally.

On Saturday morning, I woke up and went next door to get my nitro brew at Starbucks to fuel my energy for a full day of activities. I stayed at the Millennium Broadway Times Square conveniently located between 44th and 45th streets just off of Broadway/Times Square.  The location is prime, the lobby is beautiful and boasts Art Deco features and marble, but the rooms are in need of renovation.  They have stained carpets and old, dinged-up furniture.  Other options for hotels in the Broadway/Times Square area include places I’ve stayed before, like Marriott Marquis and The Crowne Plaza Times Square.  Additional options offering locations close to the theatres, which I will likely consider for my next trip, include W Times Square and Hyatt Centric Times Square.

I walked about 20 minutes from my hotel to midtown, past Rockefeller Plaza and St. Patrick’s Cathedral, specifically headed to Fifth Avenue. I had an appointment at the Cartier Mansion to drop off my Panthère de Cartier ring for a nose job and spa treatment. My white gold ring features an onyx nose that protrudes from the piece, which means that it needs to be replaced every few years because it inevitably gets chipped. They also polish it and put a coating of rhodium to make it look brand new.

The service associate looked at me over the top of her glasses as she pulled up my information on her computer.  “You have a nice collection,” she said, noting my stack of Cartier bracelets on my right wrist, including the Love collection, Juste un Clou (just a nail), and more recent Ecrou de Cartier (Cartier nut).  Cartier nut describes me fittingly; however, I managed to get out of the store without purchasing the new Panthère de Cartier bracelet that my sales associate said got lost among my other pieces.  I did indulge in a pair of Panthère de Cartier sunglasses in metal with smooth golden finish and golden mirror lenses flanked by two golden panthers on the temples.

After leaving the Cartier mansion, I walked a few blocks to Bergdorf Goodman. Bergdorf Goodman is a luxury department store based on Fifth Avenue in Midtown Manhattan. The company was founded in 1899 by Herman Bergdorf and was later owned and managed by Edwin Goodman, and later his son, Andrew Goodman.

 

Bergdorf Goodman’s 7th-floor cafe offers salads and sandwiches, afternoon tea and Central Park views.  I indulged in the truffle pasta special before scurrying off to a matinee of Moulin Rouge! The Musical, winner of the Tony award for this year’s Best Musical.

 

Moulin Rouge! The Musical is a jukebox musical with a book by John Logan. The musical is based on the 2001 film Moulin Rouge! directed by Baz Luhrmann and written by Luhrmann and Craig Pearce. The musical was nominated for 14 Tony’s and won a total of 10, including Best Actor in a Musical, Aaron Tveit and best performance by a Featured Actor in a Musical, Danny Burstein.  The show weaves in so many pop music numbers you lose count. The set is spectacular and the entire production is delightful.

Thankfully my hotel was close to the theatres allowing me enough time to literally run to the hotel from the theatre during intermission to plug my phone in to charge. I hurried back to the show totally out of breath.  After the curtain call, I made my way back to the hotel to retrieve my phone and then got an Uber to The Polo Bar, a Ralph Lauren Restaurant.

 

I have dined at the RL Restaurant in Chicago many times, but this was my first time to experience The Polo Bar in New York City.  The Polo Bar is Ralph Lauren’s first New York restaurant, serving seasonal American classics and Ralph Lauren’s personal favorites in a setting that pays homage to the sophisticated equestrian heritage of his world. Warm and inviting, The Polo Bar offers cocktails and light fare at the bar and dinner in the main dining room downstairs.

 

I went with one of the standards, which I almost always order in Chicago, the veal Milanese, a generous veal chop pounded thin and breaded, served with a light arugula salad.  This left enough room for dessert, which was so scrumptious that I gobbled it down quickly, finishing before the arrival of my iced latte.  The special dessert was a chocolate shortbread tart filled with peanut butter ganache and dusted in cocoa with a tiny portion of coffee ice cream on the side.

 

After dinner I made my way back upstairs to the bar to wait for my longtime sister-friend Diana Patton and her beautiful daughter CC who were visiting Manhattan from Ohio, my home state.  They came to The Polo Bar to see me, give me a hug and walk with me back to Times Square and Broadway, which gave us ample time to chat and catch up before they left me at the Lunt Fontanne Theater for an evening performance of Tina:  The Tina Turner Musical.

Similar to my love affair with New York, my admiration for Tina Turner began as a young boy. I was only 11 when I first heard her screeching, “What’s Love Got to Do With it?” her only number one hit. A proud member of the MTV generation, I was captured by her spell—the high heels, the fishnets, the short leather skirt, jean jacket and of course the Tina hair. What a vision and what an inspirational story of survival and triumph behind the stage persona, which I read about in her autobiography, I, Tina. The whole world was shocked at her story of survival of domestic abuse, racism and, later, ageism as she struggled to make a comeback.

 

My adoration for both the City That Never Sleeps and the Queen of Rock and Roll was indeed the catalyst behind my weekend getaway to the Big Apple.  My main purpose was to see Tina:  The Tina Turner Musical on Broadway. 

I especially wanted to see Adrienne Warren who returned to Tina: The Tina Turner Musical on Broadway for a three-week limited engagement through October 2021. She recently won the Tony Award for Best Actress in the role she originated in London in 2018 and then again when the show opened in New York in 2019.  Her portrayal of Tina has thrilled audiences, now including myself.  I was fortunate to finally witness her talents, and Adrienne is a powerhouse!

 

Thanks to my new friend Monique Gaffney aka “Snatchinwigz” I got the opportunity to watch the show from a house seat. Monique is from Hawaii and styles wigs for the production so she extended her aloha spirit and got me special VIP treatment, for which I’m deeply appreciative. I brought her some goodies from the islands, including guava and lilikoi shortbread cookies from Diamond Bakery, an orchid lei, and an insulated bag with a beautiful red hibiscus on the outside.  The bag was brand new with the tag still attached.  Mama G had bought it and I found it in the cupboard in our kitchen.  I thought it was a nice way to bring her spirit with me to Broadway.  I also brought along another special lei for Monique to give to Adrienne Warren, the star, made of cigar flowers, kukui nuts, shells and tea leaves.

Having seen the formidable Tina Turner live in concert seven times before she traded in her dancing shoes for retirement in her Swiss chateau, I was skeptical. However, the show is thrilling, high energy and accomplishes the challenges of revealing the legendary performer’s life journey from the cotton fields of Nutbush, Tennessee to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame.

 

I enjoyed it so much that I saw it twice—first on Saturday night and again for the Sunday matinee. My experience was a Tale of Two Tina’s.  The Saturday evening performance started with recent Tony winner Warren as Tina but she bowed out after intermission due to illness (vocal issues).  She was replaced in the second act by Nkeki Obi-Melekwe who also replaced Warren in the London production.  She is making her Broadway debut.  Obi-Melekwe also starred in the Sunday matinee performance that I attended.  Both women were extraordinary performers. They possess enviable talent and beauty and carry on Tina’s legacy.

After the Sunday show, I stood outside the stage door where I met three of the cast leads and some of the ensemble, all of whom were both extraordinarily talented and super friendly.  I got to meet Tony nominee Daniel J. Watts who plays Ike; Dr. Dawnn Lewis who portrays Tina’s Mom, Zelma; and Tony nominee Myra Lucretia Taylor who plays Gran.  Dr. Lewis recognized me after the second performance when we chatted outside the stage door.  She said, “You were here last night.  I remember you.  You have beautiful hair!”  We spoke with mutual admiration for the legendary Queen of Rock and Roll.  I explained how she gives us all hope and encourages us to believe in ourselves.  Dr. Lewis concurred, “And to not just survive but thrive!” 

 

Like the marquee proclaims, “There is only ONE Tina!” However, it is thrilling to relive the old days of Tina concerts through the younger performers carrying on her legacy. The encores included concert-style performances of “Nutbush City Limits” and the epic “Proud Mary,” which brought the sold out crowd to their feet screaming, cheering, singing, clapping and dancing along.

Before the Sunday matinee of Tina, I also squeezed in an earlier matinee of Come From AwayCome From Away is set in the week following the September 11 attacks and tells the true story of what transpired when 38 planes were ordered to land unexpectedly in the small town of Gander in the province of Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada as part of Operation Yellow Ribbon. The characters in the musical are based on (and in most cases share the names of) real Gander residents as well as some of the 7,000 stranded travelers they housed and fed.  It was a moving portrayal of real life and the triumph of human kindness in seemingly helpless situations.

I enjoyed a delicious New York pastrami sandwich on grilled rye bread at Friedman’s at the Hotel Edison in Times Square before the show. Hotel Edison is located between 45th and 46th Streets in the heart of the theatre district.  The lobby was charming Art Deco but I haven’t seen the rooms. I would consider staying there next time but the lobby was super busy and folks were lined up to get into Friedman’s.  Luckily I had a reservation.

Friedman’s is a family run business, which operates nine locations throughout New York City. Friedman’s was named after the famous economist Milton Friedman who popularized the phrase, “There ain’t no such thing as a free lunch.” This phrase has gone on to be used in science, economics, finance, statistics, technology, sports, and now food. However, to put it simply, “to get one thing we like, we usually have to give up another thing we like.”

At Friedman’s, the mantra is simple, “Eat Good Food” and this is what they strive to deliver to guests. According to their web site, “For us, it has two meanings. Firstly, eat food that tastes good. Secondly, be proud of the food you serve. We know where our food comes from. We communicate regularly with our farmers and are proud to serve antibiotic free meats and local vegetables. Our mission is for you to love, respect, and enjoy, not only the food you serve, but also the team you work with.”

All of the restaurants I visited on this trip were new to me.  Two of the places I would frequent on trips to Manhattan, The Four Seasons Restaurant and Sardi’s were closed.  The Four Seasons Restaurant, which opened in 1959, sadly closed permanently 60 years later in 2019. Sardi’s is currently undergoing renovations.

For my final meal, I chose Trattoria Trecolori, which is celebrating over 25 years serving excellent Italian meals in the Theatre District.  Located on 47th Street, they claim to be the best and most authentic New York-Italian restaurant in Midtown.  I enjoyed beef carpaccio followed by chicken Parmesan served by authentic Italian waiters in a thoroughly New York atmosphere.

 

Overall, my trip was triumphant but exhausting!  When I lived in Ohio and flew to New York from Detroit, it only took a little over an hour to get there.  This was a much more ambitious sojourn.  New York makes me feel alive, and the energetic buzz is contagious.  Indeed, I ended up with a blister on my right heel from all the walking.

 

The Big Apple will always be the Center of the Universe for me and I look forward to more visits in the future, hopefully with less COVID restrictions. It is, indeed, a sign of good things to come as the theatres and restaurants have re-opened and tourists are flocking back to the urban Mecca.

 

 

 

California Connections

For the last leg of my five-week tour through 15 states on the mainland, I made a visit to Orange County, California to see some dear friends who are originally from my home state of Ohio before heading back to my new home state of Hawaii. I wanted to spend a couple of days with my sweet and kind friend Keri Hall who is a bona fide wonder woman who beat cancer, raised her wonderful daughter, Hannah as a single Mom and has an accomplished career. She is a regional director overseeing pharmaceutical sales reps in states from Wisconsin to the West Coast. She excels at being a leader, mom and friend to many.

 

She passed on her impressive genes to her lovely daughter, Hannah who is absolutely gorgeous but more importantly has a beautiful heart. Hannah is a busy young lady who is currently taking classes and applying to nursing schools where she will eventually study to become a Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist. During my visit, she was accepted to a bachelors of nursing program at Viola. She works in the local hospital as a first responder and also moonlights as a nanny for multiple families. If she takes my advice, she’ll soon add modeling to her list of accomplishments.

 

Keri scooped me up at the John Wayne Airport and we picked up some In and Out Burgers before arriving at her welcoming and lovely home that would not be out of place on the Real Housewives of Orange County. Later, Hannah and her easygoing boyfriend, Luke, also an Ohio native, made a late night run for donuts from the Rose Cafe. Luke and Hannah knew each other years ago in junior high and were reunited when Luke moved to California last year to play college football.

The next morning we stopped at Banzai Bowls so I could get my acai bowl fix.  I hadn’t had one in five weeks since leaving Hawaii, and when I’m home in the islands I eat one almost every day.  Originating in Brazil, the acai bowl is made of frozen acai palm fruit that is pureed and served as a smoothie in a bowl with fresh fruit toppings, honey, coconut and a variety of other choices, like bee pollen, almond butter and chocolate chips.

Banzai Bowls was founded in 1997 by a husband and wife team and named after the Banzai Pipeline on the North Shore of Oahu where she grew up.  The first store was established in Costa Mesa and there are several locations throughout California as well as on Oahu, where I live.  We visited the location in the charming Spanish town of San Clemente.

 

After our bowls and smoothies, Keri and I embarked on our day trip to Palm Springs, first stopping at the Desert Hills Premium Outlets, California’s largest luxury outlets with over 180 stores, including designers like Armani, Burberry, Gucci, Diesel and Prada. 

 

I’d been to the outlets once before where I spent my 40th birthday shopping until the stores closed for the day, thus making it too late to enjoy a birthday dinner.  This visit to the outlets was a little disappointing.  There were long lines for some of the stores.  We waited 45 minutes to get into the Gucci Outlet and didn’t find any treasures, which saved us a lot of money.  Some of the staff at the outlets told us they hadn’t been getting shipments due to COVID, thus resulting in low inventory.

After leaving the outlets, we drove to downtown Palm Springs, a city in the Sonoran Desert of southern California, known for its hot springs, stylish hotels, golf courses and spas. It’s also noted for its many fine examples of midcentury-modern architecture. Its core shopping district along Palm Canyon Drive features vintage boutiques, interior design shops and restaurants, as well as a walkway of stars. The surrounding Coachella Valley offers hiking, biking and horseback riding trails in addition to the famous annual music festival, which Keri and Hannah have both attended.

After strolling along Palm Canyon Drive, we drove over to Copley’s, a restaurant Keri discovered on the internet.  Copley’s is an award-winning restaurant in Palm Springs serving upscale American cuisine infused with traces of tropical and European flavors.

During the course of his 20-year culinary career, Chef Andrew Copley has satisfied some of the most discriminating taste buds at five-star locations all over the world.  Upon earning a degree at Westminster Culinary College in London, he gained experience at the world-renowned Savoy and Park Lane hotels, and proceeded to tour the globe as he acquired prestigious culinary positions and numerous “best of” honors at a number of top establishments.

Following his time in London, Chef Copley was recruited by the Grand Hyatt on the Sunshine Coast in Australia, which received the Petrees Award for #1 restaurant in the state for the three consecutive years he was commissioned there.

 

He then jetted to the U.S. to join the Ritz Carlton in Maui followed by the Ritz Carlton in San Francisco, which won the honor of #1 formal dining room during his tenure.  Chef Copley made his way back to Hawaii as Executive Chef of the Lodge at Koele on Lana’i where his refined creations helped earn them the title of #1 restaurant in Hawaii for three straight years.

 

Chef Copley ultimately settled in the desert hotspot Palm Springs, where he realized his dream of opening his own restaurant in 2004. Chef Copley has been called an “emerging chef” by the New York Times and is a contributor to media such as Restaurant & Hospitality, Rachael Ray Magazine and NBC.

 

Located on the former Cary Grant estate, we experienced a sense of nostalgia while dining outside on the lanai with stunning mountain views and gentle desert breezes. For starters, we shared the braised short rib and lobster mac and cheese and a wedge salad, with delicious blue cheese dressing.  The mac and cheese was to die for.  Keri enjoyed the Hawaiian ahi dinner special and I ordered the furikaki encrusted salmon.  The tropical references reminded me that I was soon heading home to the islands. We indulged in desserts, as I cannot resist a chocolate soufflé, especially when it’s served with house made salted caramel ice cream.  Keri loved the sticky toffee pudding complemented with house made Tahitian vanilla bean ice cream.  It was a relaxing and enjoyable evening as the sun set revealing a blanket of stars illuminating the night sky.

The next day Keri and Hannah took me to Malibu.  As many times as I’ve been to California I can’t remember ever seeing Malibu.  Secretly hoping to run into Barbra Streisand, we made our way north along the coast from San Juan Capistrano to the coastal town known for its celebrity homes and beaches, including wide and sandy Zuma Beach. To the east is Malibu Lagoon State Beach, known as Surfrider Beach for its waves. Nearby is the Spanish Revival–style Adamson House, with local history displays in its Malibu Lagoon Museum. Inland, trails weave through canyons, waterfalls and grasslands in the Santa Monica Mountains.

We had a late lunch/early dinner, or “Linner” as Keri calls it, at the Malibu Farm Restaurant located on the Malibu Pier and offering farm-to-table food with the best views of Malibu. Malibu Farm has other locations, including on the Hawaiian island of Lana’i at the Four Seasons Resort, where I traveled last summer with my partner’s mom, Geri.

Founder and chef Helene Henderson started Malibu Farm a few years ago, doing cooking classes and farm dinners out of her home and in her backyard where she has two goats. Helene now has a casual counter service cafe at the end of the Malibu Pier and a full service restaurant and bar at the beginning of the pier. She uses nothing but the best locally sourced, fresh ingredients.

Chef Henderson explains, “We use mostly whole wheat flours and whole grains. Lots of veggies, and fruits, I love arugula and I totally believe there is no such thing as too much lemon. We use no fake food. Margarine, veggie butter, sugar substitutes? What is that stuff? If you don’t know how to make it, or where it comes from, don’t eat it. don’t buy it.”

We dined al fresco and shivered a little under the blankets and outdoor heaters but the sound of the waves crashing below our feet was worth it, as was the food. We shared the ‘bu beefy nachos and 21 mile crab cake with caper berries on the side as our appetizers. Keri and Hannah both had the spaghetti squash lasagna that they said tasted as good as it looked in its impressive, towering presentation. I chose the lobster roll, which was scrumptious.

On the way to LAX from Malibu, as we passed through Santa Monica, Venice and Marina del Rey, my mind drifted through the experience. I thought about the references to Hawaii that I experienced in Southern California, which were not lost on me. It was serendipitous how both chefs Copley and Henderson have ties to Hawaii as well as the Banzai Bowls connection to the islands. I also saw a Lappert’s Ice Cream store in downtown Palm Springs, which is a Hawaiian-based business that offers shave ice in addition to ice creams. In Malibu, I noticed an outpost of Duke’s Waikiki Restaurant. There were also poke bowl shops, another reminder of the paradise awaiting me upon my return.

This sojourn was a long one and challenging to plan. I traveled through many varying climates making my way through multiple cities in 15 states which required packing different types of clothes, including outfits for LuLu and Spike, my extremely well-traveled children with paws.

I’m grateful for the time I spent with family and friends, many of whom I hadn’t seen in two years due to COVID.  I can now proudly say I’ve been to 49 out of the 50 states but I’m even more confident that there’s no place like home, which for me, is Hawaii, where I’ve lived the past three years. I’m lucky to live in paradise on fantasy island.

Funky, Fun Fargo

 

In my quest to see all 50 of the American states, North Dakota became my 49th one to visit.  The only remaining state that I have left to see is Alaska.  I decided to stop in Fargo on my way from Ohio back home to Hawaii so that I’d have all of the continental USA covered.  My partner Sam and I will plan an Alaskan cruise for our 50th birthdays coming up in a couple of years.  It’s always good to have something to look forward to.

I was full of anxiety leaving my family and friends in Ohio and heading out by myself with my two teacup Yorkies, LuLu and Spike, along with three suitcases, a backpack, dog stroller, dog bag and man purse.  It was a lot of stuff to schlep around by myself. 

Sam took me to the Detroit airport and the lady from the curbside check-in offered to assist immediately, which was a relief.  Another blessing was that my CLEAR membership was still active, also thanks to Sam. 

CLEAR is a secure identity platform that stores individuals’ personal information and links it to biometric data, allowing them to bypass the travel document checker at security checkpoints by using fingerprint and/or iris identification. CLEAR allows you to jump the line at security and it’s a significant time saver, even though I also have TSA pre-check.

The day was going great and my good fortune continued when I met another super nice and accommodating lady working at the TSA security check point who allowed me to go through the body scanner because my Cartier bracelets don’t come off and they set off the metal detector.  She let me set LuLu and Spike on the floor of the scanner booth where they waited in their carrier. They’re such good little travelers.  I always breathe a sigh of relief when I’ve passed the security hassle, which is sometimes complicated by the dogs and bracelets, but on this day it was a breeze.

Prior to departing Ohio, Sam had suggested I consider arranging a private driver in Fargo, mostly to assist with all my high maintenance belongings.  I inquired only to find out the cost would be $180 each way!  I politely told the lady on the phone that I’d schlep my own bags and use the money I saved to buy a new pair of Gucci slides.

Thus, I landed in Fargo with no porter and no ground transportation pre-arranged.  I found a free luggage cart and loaded it, pushing the stroller in one hand and the luggage cart in the other.  When I got outside, it was a balmy 80 degree day with bright, blue skies and warm rays of sunshine. 

I tried to order an Uber, but the internet connection was slow and there didn’t seem to be any drivers available. I saw a family get into a cab after I’d been told it was a half an hour wait when I called.  Thankfully, another cab came along soon thereafter, driven by an older gentleman from Ghana.  He was happy to assist with the luggage and drove me the ten minutes to my hotel, at a very reasonable price of $20, including a generous tip.  That’s a $160 savings over the private car service.

A banner on the official tourism web site for Fargo proclaims, “For a Midwestern city, Fargo’s a little off-center. You know it the moment you hit the ground. You sense it in the air, feel it on the prairie wind. This place is different. Not like anywhere you’ve been before. It’s unfamiliar ground, but it’s ground you want to spend time on. Welcome to Fargo, a place that sets the bar far above the norm.” That’s exactly why I liked it.

Fargo is a city in and the county seat of Cass County, North Dakota. Being the in most populous city in the state, it accounts for nearly 17% of the state population. According to the 2019 Census estimates, its population was 124,662. Fargo was founded in 1871 on the Red River.  It is a cultural, retail, health care, educational, and industrial center for southeastern North Dakota and northwestern Minnesota. North Dakota State University is also located in the city.

After some research on the internet prior to my journey, I opted to book the Hotel Donaldson. The Hotel Donaldson has 17 unique artist-inspired rooms filled with luxurious furnishings. You’ll find intriguing displays of local artists’ creations throughout the property.

When a friend of mine in Honolulu Rotary who is from Fargo found out I was staying at the Hotel Donaldson, he said, “Well you’re staying at the best they got!”  Unfortunately, the hotel’s lounge and restaurant were closed during my stay due to COVID.  I was disappointed because the restaurant features all locally sourced ingredients “from farm to Fargo.”

The Hotel Donaldson is located in the heart of Fargo’s revitalized downtown, offering far more than a place to sleep. Its history is deeply rooted in Fargo’s past. The Hotel Donaldson was built in 1893 as one of the first buildings to rise after a devastating fire destroyed much of Fargo’s downtown. The original owners were the International Order of Oddfellows, a fraternal organization (still active today) that advocates the values of truth, love, friendship, and to do good for humanity, values which I found on display by the friendly owners and staff throughout the town’s many shops and eateries.

In the mid 1910’s, the building changed hands and was remodeled, with a floor added to replace the building’s two-story ballroom. The building became the Hotel Donaldson, a European style hotel with shop space on its first floor.  Over the years, the Hotel Donaldson (often fondly referred to as “The HoDo”) continued to change hands but the name stayed the same. Through the urban renewal period of the 60’s and 70’s, businesses abandoned downtown Fargo for greener pastures, leaving behind a rapidly degrading infrastructure and scores of empty buildings and lots. In the late 90’s, interest began to rekindle in the redevelopment of downtown Fargo, and, in 2000, entrepreneur Karen Stoker purchased the Hotel Donaldson.

At this point, the building was in severe disrepair and served as a workingman’s hotel, offering rooms at daily and weekly rates. The renovation was a three-year process of gutting the entire building, replacing all of its interior while retaining many original structural elements. The Hotel Donaldson acknowledges the shared history of the region’s culture and signifies the importance of preserving historical buildings, but also embodies modern tastes in hospitality, quality, and social responsibility.

Since opening in August, 2003, the Hotel Donaldson has become a focal point of downtown Fargo. Aside from offering world-class accommodations and cuisine, it’s also an enthusiastic supporter of the region’s literary, performing, and visual arts, displaying many works by the region’s finest artists and providing a venue for music, poetry readings, and many other cultural happenings.

As the hotel has flourished, so has downtown Fargo. In the years since the Hotel Donaldson opened, downtown has become a vibrant home for dining, business, boutique shopping, galleries, music, and nightlife. It has become a destination for residents and visitors alike, exemplifying the values that the Fargo-Moorhead region holds dear: hard work, creativity, and an unequaled quality of life.

Strolling though town, I noticed an international influence as I visited some gift stores and book shops, including Zandbroz and Daily’s Market, where you can stock up on sundries for your apartment sized suite at the HoDo. Everyone was extremely friendly except for a handful of wandering vagrants who seemed to be plagued with mental health and substance abuse issues. I enjoyed visiting with Cindy, the owner of O’Day Cache, a boutique offering a unique collection of eclectic items that she travels around the world to find. Cindy told me to walk over to Roberts Alley.

Roberts Alley is only a handful of blocks in downtown Fargo, but it’s captured the imaginations of local Fargo artists for years. Roberts Alley has undergone a slow and steady transformation into a walkable pedestrian passage, with businesses opening alley entrances and artists beautifying the space. With events such as Alley Fair and Christkindlmarkt, alley murals and permission walls, Fargo has begun to value the spaces in between the buildings downtown and to see their unique potential.

Roberts Alley is home to Mezzaluna, a fine dining restaurant that everyone I talked to recommended.  Unfortunately, Mezzaluna is closed on Mondays (the only night of my visit), so I ate at the Beer & Fish Company instead.  The Beer & Fish Company is a casual dining establishment offering a plethora of seafood options.  I ordered the crab cake BLT with avocado and remoulade, indulging in the fresh-cut spiral chips with sea salt. 

Roberts Alley also conveniently happens to be the location of Scoop N Dough Candy Company, which I’d discovered on a YouTube travel blog.  They offer a tempting selection of cookie doughs and ice creams.  I had the PB Cup cookie dough with a scoop of Big Muddy ice cream on top, a dark chocolate base with fudge brownie pieces.  It was so sinful that I couldn’t finish it.

For coffee enthusiasts, there’s not a Starbucks in sight, but there are many other options, including Atomic Coffee and Third Drop Coffee, both within walking distance of the hotel.

Fargo is a funky, fun little town.  You’ll find an adventurous pioneering spirit alive and well in Fargo with a surprising array of cultural influences, attractions and activities far beyond what is characteristic for a city its size.  Overall, it was a surprisingly enjoyable experience that was both unexpected and “North of Normal,” as the locals like to call it.